Plymouth, UK
Plymouth is a city in Devon, and the largest city on England’s south coast, with a population of 0ver 260,000. It is located approximately 310 km south-west of London, where the River Plym and the River Tamar (pronounced “TAY-mar”) flow into the large bay of Plymouth Sound, creating a perfect natural harbour. The sea has been at the heart of Plymouth since it was founded in the middle-ages as a trading post and the source of its prosperity. Plymouth was the point from which the Pilgrim Fathers left England in 1620 for Massachusetts – commemorated today in the Mayflower Steps. It was also the port from which Lieut. James Cook and HMS Endeavour sailed on 26th August 1768 on Cook’s first voyage of discovery into the South Pacific, during which the coast of New Zealand and eastern Australia were explored and first charted.
Plymouth is one of England’s classic ocean cities, and for centuries has been a centre for shipping; first for trade and commercial shipping, and today as a base for the Royal Navy. Indeed, the city’s Devonport Dockyard is the most extensive naval base in western Europe. The water, with its leisure activities, brings many tourists to Plymouth, as well as its various museums and other tourist attractions. In addition its location close to Dartmoor and other sights of south Devon to the east and Cornwall to the west make it an excellent base for a trip to the south-west of England.
The city was heavily bombed in World War II and much of the city-centre was destroyed. After the war, a comprehensive reconstruction plan at first produced the carefully-planned urban spaces and elegant buildings of the shopping streets in the city centre, constructed in the 1950s. However, due to budget restrictions many of the buildings erected in the 1960s and 70s were of poor architectural quality, and these are now being torn down and replaced across the city by modern ones (with exceptions of some quality, such as the listed tower of the Civic Centre on the Royal Parade). As a result, there are many modern buildings with others under construction.
Plymouth is a friendly city with an egalitarian feel and a sense of openness among its people, and there is less evidence of a sharp divide between rich and poor that is found in much of the southern half of England. Wonderful Devon and Cornwall scenery surrounds the city and famous city locations, such as the Hoe, the Barbican, and Plymouth Sound draw thousands every year yet Plymouth doesn’t have the “tourist trap” feel that hangs over many other English cities. For those who love the sea, or the coast, or the brooding landscapes of Dartmoor, or just want a break in a welcoming and interesting city, Plymouth is an enticing and friendly destination.
The city is located at the south-west corner of Devon, with Cornwall beginning immediately to the west of the city. It lies between two river mouths – the estuary of the River Tamar (“TAY-mar”) to the west (the estuary is called the Hamoaze) and the estuary of the River Plym to the east (called the Cattewater)at the head of is Plymouth Sound.
Rail Travel
Plymouth’s railway station is just to the north of the city-centre, a few minutes’ walk away. If you are coming to or from the East, you will probably travel on the stretch of line between Newton Abbot and Exeter. This is one of the most scenic in the UK, as the train travels along the sea wall between Teignmouth (pronounced “Tin-muth”), Dawlish, and Starcross, and incredible sea cliffs and rolling hills line the entire route.
Inter-City services are provided by First Great Western (mostly using InterCity 125 trains) and CrossCountry. Direct trains arrive and depart for London (3-4 hours), Bristol (2 hours), the Midlands (Birmingham 3hr 40min), stations in the North of England (several hours), and Scotland (e.g. Edinburgh in just over 9 hours, Aberdeen in 12 hours). You can also take inter-city services west to Cornwall to destinations like Penzance, Truro, etc. By direct train, or by making a change, you can get to almost anywhere in England, Scotland, or Wales.
Sleeper services to London are provided by First Great Western. The ‘Night Riviera’ leaves London at around midnight every weeknight and Sunday, arrives in Plymouth at 5:30AM and departs at 6:30AM; the train continues to Penzance in Cornwall.
Plymouth By Road
Plymouth’s principal access route from the East and the West is the A38 dual carriageway which runs through the city (the Devon Expressway). It connects to the M5 at Exeter for onward journeys, and into the heart of Cornwall to the west. The A386 connects Plymouth to Tavistock, Okehampton, the A30, and North Devon.
Plan and Book:
Plymouth: See and Do
A grassy area called Plymouth Hoe (always just called “the Hoe”), whose names comes from a Saxon word for “grassy slope”, is the first piece of land sighted when Plymouth is approached by sea. Conversely, it is the last land seen by ships as they leave Plymouth harbour. From here, planned as part of the grand reconstruction of the 1950s, runs the “spine” of the city – north from Smeaton’s Tower (the lighthouse) on the Hoe, to the railway station north of the city-centre. This “spine” is Armada Way, a wide street, mostly pedestrianised, with council offices at its southern end, and shops and banks and cafes as you head north. Running east-west across Armada Way are other important city-centre streets with their elegant yet now-faded buildings; Royal Parade, New George Street, Cornwall Street, and Mayflower Street. These city-centre streets are bounded by busy main roads. To the east of the Hoe is the Barbican area with its historic streets and large harbour/marina, and the University of Plymouth’s large and impressive campus is just across the main road at the north-east of the city-centre. Other major streets can be found off these.
The Tourist Information Centre is in the Barbican area, at the quayside just opposite the Mayflower Steps, at 3-5 The Barbican. It is open 9AM-5PM on weekdays and 10AM-4PM on Saturdays, all year. You can get a map from the Tourist Information Centre at the Barbican. Alternatively, you can print one from an online mapping service such as Open Street Map, or use a smartphone’s maps app, as the city is covered in detail.
Popular sites around the city include Smeaton’s Tower (a lighthouse rebuilt on the Hoe from its original location at Eddystone Rock when it was replaced with a new one), the Mount Batten Peninsula, the National Marine Aquarium, and Buckland Abbey, which was Sir Francis Drake’s former home. As well as all the attractions of a modern city, Plymouth is a popular launch pad to other notable areas including the beaches and footpaths of the Devon and Cornwall coastline and the brooding landscape of nearby Dartmoor.
The National Marine Aquarium at plymouth is Britain’s largest aquarium and the deepest in Europe. You’ll find it located near the historical Barbican area, which includes Britain’s oldest bakery (Jacka’s), and the Mayflower Steps from where the Pilgrim Fathers left for the New World in 1621. It’s great for families too. You can reach it from the Mayflower Steps/Barbican by crossing the bridge across the lock that gives access to the marina. The bridge swings to let boats past, which is fun to watch. Admission charge applies. The aquarium also has an excellent fish restaurant outside, where you can eat in or take away. Ph +44 844 893 7938. Location: National Marine Aquarium, Rope Walk, Coxside
According to legend, Plymouth Hoe was the scene of Sir Francis Drake’s apocryphal game of bowls prior to his taking on the Spanish Armada in 1588. Today, you get a great view of the Sound from the Hoe, including Royal Navy ships which are usually present daily – stand on the Hoe and look out to sea, to see what you can see! Plymothians and visitors come here to take in the sea, soak up the sun in summer, play football, walk their dogs, just take a walk, and generally enjoy themselves. The lighthouse Seaton’s Tower provides wonderful views of the city, the Sound, and the sea, while there are many other monuments dotted around the Hoe, including monuments to the dead of the Royal Navy in all conflicts to date, a statue of Sir Francis Drake, and various others
The Mayflower Steps are a 20th century commemorative feature built close to the site where the Pilgrim Fathers left aboard the repaired Mayflower, before crossing the Atlantic Ocean to settle in North America. Today boat trips leave from there for tours of Plymouth Sound, although the original site is believed to be where the Admiral McBride public house now stands. (Although the Mayflower Steps still are where tourists stand and look). On shore, opposite the steps, is a building which houses an exhibition about the Pilgrim Fathers and the Mayflower, and the city’s Tourist Information Centre. Admission free to Mayflower Steps; Mayflower Centre has entry fees.
The Barbican is the oldest part of Plymouth. The main street is called New Street but used to be called Rag Street. This is the historic heart of Plymouth with lots of art galleries, restaurants, shops and holiday homes. There are also great pubs and bars and just to walk around it you can feel a great atmosphere, even more so if you are drinking outside on a summer evening. Some more of Sense and Sensibility was filmed here. If you are a fan of art, the Barbican has several specialty shops, craft work shops and art galleries.
The Post-War City Centre, focused on Royal Parade and Armada Way, has been much maligned over the years, however, it is worth stopping to have a look around you when you’re in town. As the most complete example of a post-war reconstruction in the UK, this is a historically and architecturally significant district. It was planned by none other than Patrick Abercrombie, who also redesigned Hong Kong, and some of the buildings boast Thomas Tait as their architect. With a modern, almost American look, it features what at the time was deemed the architecture of the future – clean, bright, democratic and, most of all, optimistic.’ Some of the best examples of the 1950s style are found along the main axis of Royal Parade and Armada Way, including the Royal Bank of Scotland building, the Pearl Assurance House and the former Co-Op Building at Derry’s Cross.
The Royal William Yard was once the place from which the British Navy was provisioned. The naval presence in Plymouth has long been and still is immense: the city is home to the largest naval base in western Europe, which is open to the public on Naval Days. It’s located in Stonehouse, an area of Plymouth west of the Hoe. In Summer, you can get a boat there from the Barbican, or walk or get a bus. Now a bustling public space with up-market numerous cafes, bakeries and galleries, as well as private apartments. Also known as a filming location for ITV’s ‘Hornblower’. Located right next to the Devil’s Point park, with views over to Cornwall. Admission free.
The Royal Citadel was built following the English Civil War to keep guard over Plymouth Sound and harbour. It was England’s principal fortress featuring outstanding examples of 17th-century baroque architecture and outstanding views over Plymouth Sound. The citadel is up on the Hoe, with massive walls which you will no doubt see as you walk along the seafront road. The Citadel is still used as a military base, for the army’s 29 Commando Regiment, Royal Artillery. Although it is a Ministry of Defence site, the fort is open for guided tours at 2.30 pm on Tuesdays (and in summer, also on Thursdays at same time). Meet outside the entrance on Lambhay Hill, where the military sentry is. Entry fees apply. Ph +44 1752 306330. Location: The Hoe.
Crownhill Fort is one of the largest and best-preserved of Lord Palmerston’s so-called ‘Ring of Fire’, Crownhill Fort is notable for its cannon and gun collection, including one of only two working Moncieff ‘Disappearing Guns’. It also hosts Victorian and World War II barracks and a warren of underground tunnels. It is open to the public on the last Friday of each month, in addition to selected weekends where it hosts ‘Living History’ weekends. For groups wishing to visit on other dates, it is possible to book a tour in advance. Ph +44 1752 793754. Location: Crownhill Fort Rd, Plymouth.
Plymouth Gin Distillery is the only remaining gin distillery in Plymouth, in what was once a Dominican Order monastery built in 1431. The current distillery has been in operation since 1793 (the brand/distillery is owned by multinational drinks giant Pernod Ricard). The distillery is open to visitors every day for tours, and is thought to be the last place where the Pilgrim Fathers stayed before leaving for America. It is known for having good displays – it can also be enjoyed by people who don’t drink alcohol; though you of course get to taste the gin produced there too! Surprisingly popular with families. Tour fees apply. Ph +44 1752 665292. Location: Plymouth Gin Distillery, 60 Southside St, The Barbican.
Out And About
You can get fantastic views of the marina, the Sound, and out to sea if you walk along the seafront from the Barbican. The walk will take you along Madeira Road (constructed in the 1930s to provide work for the unemployed during the Great Depression), round the bottom of the Royal Citadel’s walls. The road leads past the Hoe, and you can follow it along to the Millbay Docks. Fantastic views are available the whole way – including of Royal Navy ships in the Sound, the type of which you can often identify by the silhouette. You’ll likely also see yachts, sailing ships, fishing boats, and other watercraft in the Sound. You might notice the breakwater at the southern edge of the sound, with its Napoleonic fort.
Plymouth boasts one of the best natural harbours in Europe and maybe even the world, taking to the water can give you a new view on the city. Most tour boats leave from the Barbican, often from a jetty next to the Mayflower Steps. Various boat trips are available, lasting between 1-3 hours, taking in the Navy dockyard, Brunel’s Bridge and the Hoe foreshore but various different destinations are available. There are also shorter ferry services designed to get you from place to place across the water. You can get more details at the Tourist Information Office which is just opposite the entrance down to the jetty. Sound Cruising is one company operating trips.
Plym Valley Cycle Path, Plympton, is accessible from Plympton in the North East of the city. This path follows the Plym valley firstly alongside an old railway line and then on it through beautiful countryside all the way to Tavistock; there is very little infrastructure or facilities along the path, so any food or drink should be picked up before leaving Plymouth. There is a large Sainsbury’s located at Marsh Mills, just before you reach the beginning of the cycle path. There is a viewpoint on the first large viaduct out of Plymouth overlooking a disused quarry where peregrine falcons nest in the spring. Kingfishers, dippers, mandarin duck and many other species are found along the river Plym which flows through the woods here. Also of interest are the Cann Wood railway cottages, an abandoned Victorian railway village whose ruined houses are free to explore. The path can be followed all the way up to Dartmoor; it is possible to follow a route right up to Princetown. Can get quite crowded on the initial stretch with families on bicycles at weekends.
Cann Viaduct
Plymbridge Woods
The National Trust’s Plymbridge Woods and Plym Valley, Devon, is a wooded valley opening up to the moors of Dartmoor. Springtime sees the woodland floor covered with wild flowers including wood anemone, wild garlic, primroses and bluebells; in autumn, the valley is awash with a blaze of gold and orange. The old Cann and Bickleigh Vale quarries with interesting industrial archaeological remains now support an abundance of ferns, mosses and lichens. The site is home to many animals, including a herd of fallow deer, and a wide range of birds. The woods are on the The Plym Valley Trail, a gentle route for both cyclists and walkers heading out from Plymouth towards Dartmoor.
The Cann Viaduct was part of the South Devon and Tavistock Railway that linked Plymouth with Tavistock in Devon; it opened in 1859. The viaduct is one of six on the Tavistock section of the line which involved traversing difficult terrain. The line was extended by the Launceston and South Devon Railway to Launceston, in Cornwall in 1865. The line closed to passengers in 1962. A short section has since been reopened as a preserved line by the Plym Valley Railway.
Plym Valley Railway operates on a short section of the old Plymouth-Tavistock Great Western line that has been restored by local enthusiasts. The Railway uns a number of old steam engines and other stock, which take visitors up this historic stretch of railway into Plym Woods. Single, reuturn and ‘Rover’ tickets are available. Always check prices for individual trains before travelling. Location: Plym Valley Railway, Nr. Marsh Mills, Plympton.
Considered to be home to some of Robert Adam’s finest interiors, particularly in the neoclassical Saloon, Saltram House is a fantastically preserved example of an early Georgian house. It is also particularly interesting as the various ‘eras’ of the house are still visible, including Tudor and Palladian. It was home to the Earls of Morley, the Parker family, who were patrons of Sir Joshua Reynolds and enjoyed close friendships with Jane Austen. The estate itself is vast, and the gardens, orangery and folly are all worth a visit. Note that the grounds get crowded at certain times of the year. Saltram House is ween seen in the beginning of Ang Lee’s 1999 ‘Sense and Sensibility’. Entry fees apply. Location: 9 Saltram House, Plympton, PL7 1UH
Surrounding Area
Rame Peninsula
The Rame Peninsula or “The Forgotten Corner” as it is known locally is just across the border with Devon, in South East Cornwall. Bordered on three sides by water, the Rivers Lynher, Tamar and Plymouth Sound, you will find here a haven of peace and tranquillity. Visitors on foot take the passenger ferry from Stonehouse in Plymouth to Cremyll or, in the summer, the “Western Maid”, a delightful boat trip from the Mayflower Steps on the Barbican across the Sound landing on Cawsand Beach. Once there you will find an area of great natural beauty, quiet secluded beaches, magnificent sceneryand spectacular walks. The Coastal Path starts at Cremyll winding its way through the 800 acre Mount Edgcumbe Park. It leads to the edge of the sea and cliffs past Penlee Point and Rame Head with its 11th century monks’ chapel and stunning views to the glorious sandy beaches of Whitsand Bay.
Cawsand and Kingsand
An enjoyable day outing is to take a boat from the Barbican in Plymouth to Cawsand, a small and very picturesque village just across the Sound in Cornwall (30 minutes). Cawsand has a small stony beach and nice pubs and cafes. From there you can walk through along the stunning South West Coastal Path via the sandy beach at Whitesand Bay, past the ancient windswept chapel at Rame Head and Napoleonic fortifications and through the beautiful 18th century landscape of Mount Edgcumbe country park (about 5 km) to Cremyll. You can take the Cremyll ferry back to Plymouth (get a timetable from the Tourist Information Office, but they’re fairly frequent for the 10 minute trip). If you want a map, the Tourist Information Office will oblige.
Kingsand – Cawsand’s neighbouring village – has great views over the breakwater to Jennycliff. The small bay is a very popular anchorage with boaters. If approaching by road, be aware that parking for Kingsand and Cawsand is at the top of either village as the streets are very narrow. Before 1844, Kingsand once was part of Devon and Cawsand was always in Cornwall. When the boundary changes were enforced and Kingsand become a village of Cornwall, the house that once was on this boundary, was named Devon Corn. There is a marker on the front of the house to signify this. From time to time, Kingsand takes a hammering from huge winter swells, its famous and iconic clock tower once coming very close to being lost to the sea.
Totnes
Totnes, Salcombe and Kingsbridge are notably upmarket, bohemian communities of the South Hams to the east of the city with good restaurants and a foody, crafty, culture centred around Dartington Hall. Local wine and cheese production amid the fertile green coombes can be found at the well-known Sharpham Estate near Loddiswell. Totnes combines history, alternative therapies and breathtakingly beautiful countryside. This unique and charming market town sits in the heart of South Devon and has an international reputation for its lively and diverse community. The atmosphere is cosmopolitan but with a distinctly rustic West Country flavour, and this makes it a remarkable place to visit for its heritage, culture and very pretty setting.
Tavistock
Tavistock is an attractive, historic tin-miners’ town and is a good place to set as a hub for visiting Dartmoor. Located on the edge of Dartmoor, Tavistock was the birthplace of Sir Francis Drake. It has an amazingly good cheese shop. Specific sights are not part of the town’s appeal, it’s just a thoroughly pleasant market town with good shops in a fine position. The Pannier Market In the centre of the town, full of interesting stalls during the daytime. Tavistock can be reached by taking bus, number 83, 84 or 86.
There is a railway viaduct above the town that hasn’t seen a train since 1964. Today it marks the beginning of a pleasant walk along the old railway line known as the Tavistock Viaduct Walk. The walk termites at Crease Lane, where a section of the old line has had homes built over it. Built during the Victorian era (it was opened in 1890), and made of granite and concrete, the Tavistock Viaduct stands 23 metres high, and is 128 metres long.
Morwellham Quay is an historic river port in Devon, that developed to support the local copper mines. The port had its peak in the Victorian era and is now run as a tourist attraction and museum. 6.4 km to the west of Tavistock, this living history site features a mine, craft centre, historic port, brewery and narrow-gauge mine railway. Entry fees apply.
Truro
The cathedral cities of Truro, in Cornwall (1hr 30 drive, from 1hr train), and Exeter (40 min drive/ 1hr train) are worth a visit. Truro is the only city in Cornwall, although Bodmin is still nominally the county town. Truro’s most striking feature is the Cathedral, with its green spire and gothic appearance. The city’s heritage is as a market town and port dating back over 800 years, booming during the tin mining era. Nowadays the port is mostly used for pleasure cruises along the tributaries of the River Fal to Falmouth and St Mawes but in the not too distant past this was a bustling working port. From Penzance harbour, ferries go to the Isles of Scilly. The Royal Cornwall Museum includes the Courtney Library and exhibitions devoted to the history, culture and geography of Cornwall.
Exeter
Exeter is historically the administrative capital of the south-west peninsula. A historic mid-sized cathedral city with a good blend of arts, education, retail and history. Parts of the city walls date to Roman times, there are easily accessible remnants next to Rougemont Gardens. Exeter’s top attraction is its very beautiful gothic cathedral. The cathedral lays claim to having the longest unbroken stone roof beam of any building in the world. The town’s historic quayside includes a 17th century Customs House, which has been renovated as a headquarters for the city’s archaeological service.
The grounds and the remaining Norman structures of Rougemont Castle are open to the public, but the central part of the castle has been retired from service as an Assize Court. One-hour tours of the undergeround passages of the city’s unique medieval (and now out of use) water system ca be arranged. The canal and river offers opportunities for watersports and cycling.
Teignmouth
With a classic crescent of Georgian buildings, promenade and long sandy beach Teignmouth is a real hidden gem on the South Devon coast and is both a historic port and classic seaside holiday resort. With traditional seaside holiday attractions all around you won’t need to venture far to keep everyone entertained.
Bowermans Nose, Dartmoor National Park
Dartmoor National Park
About a 20-minute drive north, Dartmoor National Park offers fantastic views and walks. Dartmoor National Park is a vast moorland in the county of Devon, in southwest England. Dartmoor ponies roam its craggy landscape, defined by forests, rivers, wetlands and tors (rock formations). Trails wind through valleys with Neolithic tombs, Bronze Age stone circles and abandoned medieval farmhouses. The area is dotted with villages, including Princetown, home to Dartmoor Prison used during the Napoleonic Wars. A good first stop would be in Princetown where the tourist information office will give you details on some recommended walks close by.
Dartmouth
Dartmouth a scenic town with the Royal Naval College and many popular restaurants restaurants including the Carved Angel. A historic port location, Dartmouth’s geography and seaside location combined with its traditional architecture make it an idyllic settlement popular with tourists from around Britain and the near continent. The Medieval fortress of Dartmouth Castle dates back 600 years while the more recent building was still in use during the Second World War. It is under the care of English Heritage.
One of the town’s star attractions is The Newcomen Engine. It is well worth visiting Thomas Newcomen’s famous engine if only to feel very small standing beside this huge machine. Occupying the first floor of an old merchant’s house, Dartmouth Museum’s collection includes many ship models, pictures and artefacts of this ancient town together with much local and maritime information. The Paignton and Dartmouth Heritage Railway operates steam trains throughout most of the year except March. To get to Dartmouth’s railway station, you must take a ferry to Kingswear on the other side of the river. The railway reached Kingswear in 1864 and remained part of the network until 1971.
It was from Bayards Cove that The Pilgrim Fathers set sail in 1620 in the Mayflower and Speedwell, bbut hit problems and had to go to Plymouth until they could continue their journey. Bayards Cove Fort was the last line of defence against foreign intruders. During the 1970s this area found fame as a setting for TV’s The Onedin Line.
