FULL DAY DRIVES
Around The Lower Swan River | Darling Ranges | Northern Beaches, Yanchep NP and the Lancelin Coast | Avon Valley | Peel Inlet
Around The Lower Swan River Drive: full day
This drive takes in the older suburbs of Perth on and around the Swan River between Perth and Fremantle; the surf beaches of Leighton and Cottesloe; the city of Fremantle; Kings Park and its attractions; a number of lookouts around the suburbs which offers views of the Swan River, the cities of Perth and Fremantle and surrounding suburban areas. Distance: 80 km
Drive east along Adelaide Terrace, cross The Causeway and take Gt Eastern Highway. Take the first exit left to Burswood complex. The waterfront park has to a memorial to Dutchman Willem Vlamingh, the first European to visit the area in 1696. The lakes and fountains in front of the casino complex facing the highway honour Western Australia's pioneers. Return to Gt Eastern Hwy, turning right. Proceed into Canning Hwy towards Fremantle. At South Perth, turn right into Heppingstone Way Rd, then left into Mill Point Rd. Excellent views of the Perth city skyline from Sir James Mitchell Park. Perth Zoo is on the left. Continue to the end of Mill Point Road, turning left onto the Kwinana Freeway towards Fremantle. Exit the freeway at Canning Bridge, following the signs to Fremantle via Canning Hwy. After 2.5 km, turn left into Cunningham St, left into McCallum Crescent and enter Wireless Hill Park. The two lookouts offers views the the city and across the Swan and Canning Rivers. Return to Canning Hwy, turn left there right after 1 km into Hislop Rd. Follow the road left around the Lucky Bay foreshore and along Burke Drive to Point Walter. A popular picnic spot for locals, Point Walter has a long sand spit that can be walked on into the middle of the river at low tide. The buildings behind Pt. Walter was a wartime military camp, then a migrant hostel through which thousands of post-World War II migrants from Europe entered Australia. From PT Walter, proceed south along Road of Honour, turning right into Kent Rd then left into Blackall Reach Parade for a short drive alongside the narrowest section of the lower Swan River. At the end of the street, turn left into Braunton St, right into Malmsbury St, right into Preston Point Rd, right into Petra Street and left into Jerrat Drive. Follow it into Riverside Drive and continue into Fremantle. Find somewhere to park, preferably for a few hours as there is plenty to see and do in Fremantle.
Leave Fremantle travelling east along High Street, turning right at the War Memorial at the top of Monument Hill for views of Fremantle. Continue along High Street, turning left into Stirling Hwy. Cross the river and turn immediately left into Tydeman Road. Upon reaching the ocean, turn right into Port Beach Road and follow the shoreline past North Fremantle, Leighton and Cottesloe beaches. Turn right into Eric Street at Cottesloe, then left into Stirling Hwy. Travel a short distance north before turning right into Bayview Terrace, Claremont. Turn right into Victoria Avenue and follow the river through Dalkeith into Jutland Parade and Birdwood Esplanade. At Nedlands Baths, turn left then right into The Avenue and Hackett Drive, following Matilda Bay past the University of WA campus. Turn left into Mounts Bay Road then immediately right into Winthrop Avenue, then immediately right again into Kings Park. At the first intersection, veer left into May Drive. Pass the Children's Nature Playground on the right, proceed to Fraser Avenue and park for views of the city from the War Memorial. Drive south along Forrest Drive past the Botanic Gardens and DNA observation tower. Exit the park at Winthrop Avenue, turning left then left again into Mounts Bay Road. Follow the Swan River shoreline back in to the city centre.
Darling Ranges Drive: full day
A good drive for anyone desirous of some time out, it incorporates the Swan Valley - with Whiteman Park and its numerous transport-related museums, and the Swan Valley wine region, the closest world-quality wine producing area to the city of Perth - and some picnic spots and walking trails in the Darling Ranges that are favourites among the people of Perth. Distance: 160 km
Drive east along Adelaide Terrace, cross The Causeway and take Gt Eastern Highway to Guildford. At Guildford, turn right into James Street, then left into Meadow Street and continue north into West Swan Road. After crossing Reid Highway, turn left into Harrow Street and follow the signs to Whiteman Park. The park has many attractions, many of them being transport related museums and displays. After visiting Whiteman Park, return to West Swan Road. You are now in the Swan Valley wine region. Swan Valley Verdelho, Shiraz and Cabernet, all of which thrive in the region’s warm, dry summers, regular win medals at wine shows around the world; Houghtons, one of the valley's oldest wineries, is home to Australia’s most famous White Burgundy. If you would like to visit some wineries for cellar door tastings and sales, turn left at West Swan Road and follow the signs to the wineries. Exit the area via Middle Swan Road, following it into Roe Highway. At Swan View, turn left into Morrison Road. The road ends at Swan View where the Swan View railway station used to be on the original line through the Darling Ranges to Kalgoorlie. The line of the railway is visible, the walking rail to the north east leads to Western Australia's only railway tunnel, which can be walked through. The trail leads to National Falls and the picnic area of John Forrest National Park which this drive later visits.
Drive south along Swan View Road, turning left into Old York Road. After entering Gt Eastern Highway, take the first exit into John Forest National Park (entry fees apply). The picnic area has a natural swimming pool, a kiosk and is the focal point for a number of walks. Return to Gt Eastern Highway by either park entry road, turn left and drive to the town of Mundaring. From the town centre, turn right into Nichol Street and follow the signs to Mundaring Weir Rd. At Mundaring Weir, there are a number of parking alternatives. Weir Village Road on the way in leads to parking at the top of the dame wall near a picnic area. If you continue on to the base of the dam, a road to the left leads to the O'Connor Museum (former pumping station) and bottom of the dam wall. Leave the weir by continuing south along Mundaring Weir Rd. Before reaching Kalamunda, turn left into Aldersyde Road to Bickley. Turn right into Lawnbrook Rd, right into Caning Road then left into Lesmurdie and Falls Rds., following the signs to Lesmurdie Falls. Return to Canning Road, turning left into it, then right along Railway Rd through Kalamunda. Railway Road leads to Gooseberry Hill with views over the Swan River plain to the city. Follow the Zig Zag Drive down into the valley along the route of a former narrow gauge railway that climbed the Darling Ranges here by means of a zig zag railway. The railway's story is told at the Kalamunda Museum in the old railway station complex back in the town centre. At the foot of the scenic drive, turn right into Ridge Hill Road, following it into Midland. Return to the city centre via either Gt Eastern Highway or Guildford Road.
Northern Beaches, Yanchep NP and the Lancelin Coast Drive: full day
Follow the coast north from Perth, visiting its northern beaches, before reaching one of Western Australia's oldest national parks and a string of isolated coastal fishing and holiday settlements. This is where the locals go for some peace and quiet, to catch a fish or two, swim or canoe in the river or ocean and generally do as little else as possible. Distance: 260 km
Journey east from the city along Cambridge Street and Oceanic Drive to City Beach, one of the most sought after beachside suburbs of the west coast with some of Perth's most expensive, luxurious houses. Drive north up West Coast Highway past a Scarborough and Trigg, both favourites with board surfers. Where West Coast Highway sweeps inland, take West Coast Drive and follow the coastline north past North Beach, Marmion and Sorrento to Hillarys. Hillarys Boat Harbour is a very popular day-and-night destination in Perth's northern beachside suburbs, as much because of its diverse range of eateries, bars and nightclubs and attractions, as it being the sole coastal point from which to catch a ferry to Rottnest. The marina is home to the Naturaliste Marine Discovery Centre, Aquarium of Western Australia and numerous fishing charter, whale watching tour operators and diving schools. Keep heading north; following the tourist drive signs, passing by Mullaloo, Burns Beach and Quinns Rocks which, only a decade or so ago, were little more than collections of fisherman's shacks.
The wreck of Greek freighter Alkimos can be seen off the coast at Yanchep. Head north from Yanchep Beach to Two Rocks and see remnants of the glory days of the 1980’s when development was at a peak and intrepid entrepreneurs were busy building theme parks, marinas and hotels. At Two Rocks is Wild Kingdom Wildlife Park, a native animal zoo where visitors have the opportunity to feed kangaroos and handle the rare golden hairy-nosed wombat.
A short way inland from Yanchep Beach is Yanchep National Park, one of Perth's oldest attractions, created around one of the many coastal lakes in the region. The Park has hire boats, bird life and native animals on display including koalas. The area has many limestone caves; there are daily guided tours of Crystal Cave; Aboriginal cultural demonstrations are given on weekends. Further north along Wanneroo Road is the small fishing community of Guilderton, near the mouth of Moore River. It is a popular holiday spot for Perth families wishing to escape the rat race and do nothing but swim, canoe, fish (bream, tailor and herring) or laze around. The town is home to the Gravity Discovery Centre which works to integrate art, science and technology while providing a cross-cultural understanding of cosmology, with theories that range from the Aboriginal Dreamtime to the Big Bang. Guilderton was thus named because a number of Dutch guilders were found in the sand in the vicinity in the 1950s. They came from the Vergulde Draeck (Gilt Dragon), a Dutch trading ship wrecked off the coast in 1656, which was finally found in April 1963 at Ledge Point, not far from the mouth of the Moore River. Further north are the commercial and recreational fishing settlements of Seabird, Breton Bay and Ledge Point before reaching the end of the road at the crayfishing town of Lancelin. Here you can end your day in the crayfishing town of Lancelin tackle the mighty sand dunes by 4WD or sand board. Lancelin is the gateway to Australia's finest windsurfing and is noted on the International Windsurfing Circuit. Return to Perth via Wanneroo Road.
Avon Valley Drive: full day
Travel east over the Darling Ranges for a leisurely drive to the three major towns of the Avon Valley - Toodyay, Northam and York. The oldest inland towns in Western Australia, all are farming towns and all are rich in Australian colonial architecture. Distance: 250 km
Leave Perth via Gt Eastern Highway. At Midland, take Great Northern Highway and then Toodyay Road to the little country town of Toodyay. The whole place has a quaint, almost alternative-lifestyle feel to it. The town's Old Gaol Museum tells the story of WA's only bushranger - Moondyne Joe. From Toodyay, drive to Northam, the largest inland town in Western Australia and the commercial centre for the surrounding farming district. Northam is the home of Australia's only surviving colony of white swans and the starting point for the popular Avon Descent race, an annual whitewater race down the rapids of the Avon River that attracts entrants from many countries. Held each August, the 134 km whitewater/marathon race is recognised by canoers the world over as one of the great river races of the world. A Heritage Trail (free booklet available from the visitor's centre) takes in the town's colonial era buildings and the longest pedestrian suspension bridge in Australia. Moving on from Northam and further up the Avon River is York, the first township in the Avon Valley. Unfortunately it waves the tourism flag so vigorously, imploring visitors to part with their money from just about every corner, many who go there miss the sheer pleasure of being in one of Australia's premier historical towns. Dating back to 1831, York is one of the best preserved and restored nineteenth century towns in Australia, a true monument to the architecture of the late nineteenth century. The drive back to Perth is by the Great Southern Highway to The Lakes, the by the Great Eastern Highway to Perth via Mundaring. Lake Leschenaultia, an old railway dam on the original Perth-Kalgoorlie line near Chidlow, makes a good stopping place for a barbecue, picnic or a swim on a hot day for travellers on their way back from Toodyay, York or Northam.
Peel Inlet Drive: full day
Fremantle; Rockingham (Point Peron); Safety Bay (Penguin Island); Manduarah; Pinjarra; Serpentine Dam
Depart Perth City and head along Stirling Highway to Fremantle. Take a leisurely drive through the port, passing the heritage ‘sheds’ that once supported the passenger terminal and the striking Maritime Museum. Cruise along the Cappuccino Strip; you might like to stop for a freshly brewed coffee to start your day, or soak up the atmosphere of the Sunday markets. From here journey to the Fishing Boat Harbour and take a drive out to the western point to view Garden Island. Leave Fremantle and head south past Woodman Point, the ship yards at Henderson and the industry at Kwinana. This brings you to Rockingham. Enjoy a scenic drive along the Rockingham foreshore; why not stop off stop off for a swim? It’s a great beach for the kids, with shallow waters and protection from the sea breeze. Follow the road around the foreshore to Point Peron and climb the lookout for spectacular views of the Indian Ocean and the local islands. Follow the winding road along the Shoalwater Islands Marine Park, one of the prettiest parts of the coast. If you’ve got time walk the sand bar to Penguin Island and see if you can spot one of the elusive residents. Drive past the tranquil waters of Safety Bay and join up with Rockingham Road towards Mandurah. Spend a relaxing afternoon on the Mandurah foreshore or join a cruise through the canals viewing the million dollar homes, you may even spot dolphins! Or just chill out in a coffee shop and watch the world pass by.
MULTI DAY REGIONAL DRIVES
South-West: 5 days | Shipwreck Coast: 4 days | Murchison/Pilbara: 8 days | Gt Southern and Eastern Goldfields: 10 days
South-West of Western Australia Drive: 5 days
The south-west is one of the prettiest corners of Western Australia where nothing is too far away from anything else - something rare in a state where in some parts the next town is often just a tiny settlement over an hour's drive away. Being where the Southern Ocean meets the Indian Ocean, the South-West has higher rainfall than anywhere else in the state except for the tropical north, resulting in dense forests and lush green farmland that are a pleasure to drive through. On this drive there is dramatic coastal scenery, particularly on the south coast, to photograph, wild but friendly dolphins to interact with at Bunbury, giant waves to surf at Yallingup and Prevelly, acclaimed wines to taste at Margaret River, and a giant Karri tree to climb at Pemberton. Distance: 1,041 km
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Approx. cost for 2 people in a compact or sub-compact car (meals etc. not included)
| Car hire |
5 days |
$350.00
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| Accommodation |
4 nights |
$400.00
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| Fuel |
7 litres/100km |
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Travellers' Notes: South-West | Great Southern | Wheatbelt (Central Agricultural Region)
Day 1: Journey south on South Western Highway, passing Serpentine National Park with its two picturesque dams and a few waterfalls. Continue along the Highway towards Pinjarra, one of the oldest towns in Western Australia, that is situated on the banks of the Murray River. It has always ben a great place to stop for some friendly country service and a delicious home cooked meal. From Pinjarra, head towards Mandurah on the coast, travelling through the Peel Region. Its large tracts of land, while not being stunningly pretty, remain untouched and give the drive an air of peace and tranquillity. Mandurah, now almost an outer suburb of Perth, is a great place from which to explore the Murray River and the Peel waterways, boats and canoes are available for hire in Mandurah as is fishing and crabbing gear. Take the Old Coast Road from Manduarah, passing the coastal lakes of Yalgorup National Park. Rock-like structures known as thrombolites can be seen on the edge of Lake Clifton. Like the famous Stromatolites of Hamelin Pool, in Shark Bay, the thrombolites are built by micro-organisms too small for the human eye to see. Lake Clifton is one of only a few places in Western Australia where living thrombolites survive. Bunbury is the major port for the South West, mainly for the export of woodchips and alumina these days. It has some interesting heritage buildings, good surfing (and sunsets) at Back Beach, a wildlife conservation park and wild but friendly dolphins that interact with people at the Leschenault Waterways Discovery Centre in Koombana Bay. Follow the shores of Geographe Bay for an overnight stay at the resort town of Busselton. 247 km
Day 2: Continue west from Busselton around Geographe Bay to the holiday and retirement towns of Siesta Park and Dunsborough and Cape Naturaliste (historic lighthouse). The coastal scenery changes as you head south to Yallingup, the centre for surfing and the surfing culture in these parts. Prevelly Beach to the south is also a favourite though quite challenging place to surf. Canal Rocks is a great place to clambers over rocks and look for shells, crabs etc. while dodging the pounding seas that roll in endlessly. The whole region to the south is limestone country, meaning that it is also caves and wine country. Guided tours are available at Yallingup Caves and caves at Margaret River and Augusta to the south. As you leave Yallingup via Caves Road, you enter one of Australia's premier red wine producing regions - Margaret River. Blessed with an almost perfect Mediterranean climate, it is ideal grape growing country, and award-winning wineries abound. The region has become famous for its fruity, dry whites, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. The renowned Margaret River Wine Region Festival is held every November. Tours, maps, details of events etc. are available from the visitor's centre at the Margaret River township. Continue south, either on Caves Road or Bussell Highway to Augusta. Just out of town is Cape Leeuwin, a rugged, windswept jumble of rocks where the Southern Ocean meets the Indian Ocean. This point is just about as far away as you can get without leaving the country from almost any place on Australia's eastern seaboard. The Cape Leeuwin lighthouse is open for inspection (entry fees apply) and the calcified waterwheel nearby is an interesting relic from the past. Return via the Bussell Highway as far as the Brockman Highway junction. Take that highway to Nannup, then drive south along Vasse Highway to Pemberton. 138 km
Day 3: On the assumption that you would have not arrived early enough on Day 2 to have seen much of Pemberton, spend the morning having a look around. The short drive through the forests to Beedelup Falls, trout hatchery and Walk Through Tree (a 75 m, 400 year old karri which has a hole which visitors can walk through). The town's most popular tourist attraction is the huge Gloucester Tree with its fire lookout some 64 metres above the ground, reached by climbing a hair-raising 153 rung ladder up the side of the tree to the top. Take the road to Northcliffe and then Middleton road to join South Western Highway. Turn right towards Shannon and the pretty south coast towns of Walpole (the big Tingle Tree at Hilltop is a must-see), Nornalup and Denmark that are extremely popular with Perth holiday-makers. The coastal scenery around here is pretty and in places quite stunning, making it an ideal area to come for a spot of fishing, beachcombing or bushwalking.. If you tear yourself away, head for Albany for a two night stay there. 239 km
Day 4: Albany is the site of the first European settlement in Australia. Its main street seems to go straight into the Princess Royal Harbour, as if to warn visitors that this is a place full of surprises. Unlike anywhere else in southern WA, it rains a lot, 942 mm per year to be exact. It can also get quite cold when the winds from Antarctica blow straight off the ocean. A wind farm that takes full advantage of the locality, welcomes visitors and has good signage to explain this eco-friendly technology. Albany sits on the edge of one of the largest natural harbours in the world. On its shore is a former whaling station that is now an excellent museum dedicated to whales and whaling. Whales still come to Albany, and are often seen between July and October in the calm waters off Middleton Beach. A blowhole, gap and huge natural bridge are just minutes away from each other can be found on a superb stretch of dramatic coastline weathered by the timeless forces of the Southern Ocean. These are just a few of the many places to visit in and around Albany.
Day 5: The return trip to Perth from Albany takes around 5 hours and for most people it is a straight drive through. Therefore, take as long as you like seeing more of Albany and surrounds on Day 5 before you leave via Albany Highway. 417 km
Shipwreck Coast Drive: 4 days
The coast of Western Australia between Cape Leeuwin and Shark Bay has been known to be dangerous to shipping ever since Dutch seaman Frederick Houtman marked his charts 'Abri voll olos' - meaning 'watch out' in 1719, after having came across a group of rugged islands off the recently discovered coast of New Holland (Australia). Over the next century, at least three Dutch trading vessels came to grief on this coastline and many more followed over the ensuing centuries. This drive follows the coast to Kalbarri, then returns via an inland route through the central wheatbelt, an agricultural region known for its spectacular wildflowers in Spring. Distance: 1,443 km
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Approx. cost for 2 people in a compact or sub-compact car (meals etc. not included)
| Car hire |
4 days |
$280.00
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| Accommodation |
3 nights |
$300.00
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| Fuel |
7 litres/100km |
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Travellers' Notes: Wheatbelt (Central Agricultural Region) | Murchison | Gascoyne
Day 1: Journey east from the city along Cambridge Street and Oceanic Drive to City Beach. Drive north up West Coast Highway past Scarborough and Trigg, Hillarys (home of the Naturaliste Marine Discovery Centre, Aquarium of Western Australia) all the way to Yanchep. The wreck of Greek freighter Alkimos can be seen off the coast at Yanchep. A short way inland from Yanchep Beach is Yanchep National Park, one of Perth's oldest attractions, created around one of the many coastal lakes in the region. The Park has hire boats, bird life and native animals on display including koalas. The area has many limestone caves; there are daily guided tours of Crystal Cave; Aboriginal cultural demonstrations are given on weekends. Further north along Wanneroo Road is the small fishing community of Guilderton, near the mouth of Moore River. It is a popular holiday spot for Perth families wishing to escape the rat race and do nothing but swim, canoe, fish (bream, tailor and herring) or laze around. The town is home to the Gravity Discovery Centre which works to integrate art, science and technology while providing a cross-cultural understanding of cosmology, with theories that range from the Aboriginal Dreamtime to the Big Bang. Guilderton was thus named because a number of Dutch guilders were found in the sand in the vicinity in the 1950s. They came from the Vergulde Draeck (Gilt Dragon), a Dutch trading ship wrecked off the coast in 1656, which was finally found in April 1963 at Ledge Point, not far from the mouth of the Moore River. Further north are the commercial and recreational fishing settlements of Seabird, Breton Bay and Ledge Point before reaching the end of the road at the crayfishing town of Lancelin. Here you can end your day in the crayfishing town of Lancelin tackle the mighty sand dunes by 4WD or sand board. The unique Pinnacles Desert of natural stone monuments is located only 4km from the beach.
Return almost to Guilderton, taking Gingin Brook Road just after the turnoff to Guilderton. Upon reaching Gingin, turn left onto Brand Highway and head north towards Geraldton. There is very little to stop and look at before reaching Dongara and Port Denison on Brand Highway, but there are roads to numerous coastal townships of Cervantes, Jurien, Leeman and Green Head along the way. Reached by roads terminating on Brand Highway, All these coastal settlements known for their fishing, swimming, surfing and diving. The unique Pinnacles Desert of limestone monuments is located at Nambung National Park, near the beachside settlement of Cervantes. Access to Park is by 4-wheel drive vehicles only. The formations are actually the skeletal remains of trees that grew thousands of years ago.
The village of Leeman is named after Abraham Leeman van Santwits, first officer and navigator of the Dutch ship Waeckende Boey, who was stranded here in 1658 when the small boat he had come ashore in became separated from the Waeckende Boey. Leeman and his party of 14 men set sail for Jakarta, Indonesia, in an overloaded open boat. He and three sailors survived the epic journey. A plaque on a limestone obelisk at the end of Marcon Street, Two Rocks, marks the place where Leeman and his men came ashore.
Cataby is the traditional stop for travellers, about 250 km north of Perth, with two roadhouses. Near Cataby is the Salt Lake and the Yandin lookout that (in good visibility days) offers views of surrounding countryside. Regan’s Ford is a nice picnic spot on the banks of the Moore River about half-way between Perth and Eneabba. The twin towns of Dongara & Port Denison, to the south of Geraldton, are well known for their crayfishing, fishing, wildflowers (from July to October) and provide a welcome stopover for travellers. Ellendale Pool, near Walkaway, is a natural freshwater pool formed by Greenough river and fed by underground springs. Between Dongara and Geraldton, the highway passes across the Greenough plains. Numerous buildings in the ghost town of Greenough have been brought back to life by locals and tells the story of the rise and fall of the Greenough community. The trees on Greenough Plains are unusual in that they have been so blown by prevailing winds, their trunks bend over and touch the earth. Geraldton is now known as the 'Sun City' because of the average of 8 hours sunshine per day and a warm dry climate. The port for the surrounding region, Geraldton is well known for its kilometres of long white beaches which attract swimmers, windsurfers and fishermen as well as those who just love beach walking. Geraldton Maritime Museum documents the stories of the 17th Century Dutch ships that perished on the Abrolhos Islands, a group of 122 islands 60 km off the coast of Geraldton. 548 km
Day 2: Drive north from Geraldton, passing through Northampton on the way to Kalbarri. Off the highway, Kalbarri is coastal town located on the mouth of the Murchison River. Kalbarri is on a stark but beautiful stretch of coastline with red coastal cliffs and gorges. Inland is Kalbarri National Park where the Murchison River winds its way through colourful gorges, which can be viewed from above or from within the gorges themselves. Bushwalking, canoeing the river and fishing are popular activities here. From July until November the park is transformed into a mosaic of colour with over 800 species of West Australian native wildflowers. Whales are often seen from the cliffs during those months. You have the rest of the day to spend exploring in and around Kalbarri. It was near the mouth of the Murchison River at Kalbarri that two mutineers, who survived the wreck of the Dutch trading ship Batavia on the Abrolhos Islands, were marooned in 1629, being the first known people of European origin to have attempted settlement on Australia's shore. What happened to them is not known. To the north of Kalbarri are the Zuytdorp Cliffs, a 150 km long rugged, spectacular and little visited stretch of coastline where the Dutch trading ship Zuytdorp came to grief in 1712. Artefacts from the wreck have been found on the cliff tops, indicating there were survivors, but how many and what happened to them is not known. The wrecksite can be flown over on an aerial tour of the Kalbarri/Shark Bay coastline from Kalbarri. Stay the night at Kalbarri. 200 km
Day 3: Take the coastal road south back to Geraldton, departing Kalbarri via Grey Road. On the way you will past the turnoff to Port Gregory, a tiny fishing village on the coast. Also along the road are the ruins of Lynton Hiring Station. Established in 1853 this convict hiring station employed convicts of the time to work at the local Geraldine Mine. Horrocks Beach, another coastal fishing village, is a 22km drive from Northampton. Drive south to Geraldton, taking the Geraldton Mount Magnet Road to Mullewa. The Mid West is noted for its wildflowers, wildflowers which are at their best during the months of July to September around Mullewa. Short walking trails covering railway heritage, wildflowers, bushland and heritage buildings commence in the town centre. Tallering Peak (453 m) and Gorge are 56 km north of Mullewa. At the gorge there is an old iron ore mine tunnel through the mountain. Coalseam is the site of State's first coal deposit discovery (1846). Mining was unprofitable, but the old open mine shafts are still there, covered for safety. Many unusual rocks can be found in the river bed and the area is also renowned for fossils. The old goldmining mining town of Yalgoo is 119 km east of Mullewa. Jokers Tunnel, 12 km south-east of Yalgoo, was carved through the rock in late 19th century by early gold prospectors. Travel south from Mullewa to Mingenew on the Mingenew-Mullewa Road. Follow the Moora-Dongara Road south to Three Springs, a typical wheatbelt town with a population of about 500. Three Springs is the home of Western Australia’s first Talc Mine (10 km east). Mica Mine Thicket in Dookanooka National Park, near Three Springs, is a large stand of natural bushland including native flora and fauna of the area. Located 18km south west of Three Springs. Yarra Yarra Lakes and Pink Lakes are part of an intermittent salt lake system which provides unique scenery. Between August and November, the Three Springs area is ablaze with wildflowers. 324 km
Day 4: South of Three Springs is the town of Carnamah. Local attractions in the town include the Painted Roads Murals, a regional initiative, using local volunteer support. Yarra Yarra Lakes and Macpherson Homestead are a stone's throw from the townsite. Continue south on the Midlands Road to Coorow and Watheroo, a typical wheatbelt town. Watheroo National Park is a good place to view wildflowers in season. Its major attraction is Jingemia Cave. Moora is a substantial wheatbelt service town. Berkshire Valley Folk Museum, located 19 km to the east of the town, is well worth a visit. Continue south, joining the Great Northern Highway at Walebing, on your way to New Norcia. Australia’s only Monastic Town, New Norcia is an extraordinary and unusual Spanish-influenced religious settlement in the middle of the dry, vast wheatbelt. The community was established by Benedictine monks in 1847. They named it New Norcia after Norcia in Italy, the birthplace of the founder of the Order - Saint Benedict. Continue south through Bindoon in the Chittering Valley. The Catholic Agricultural Collage at Bindoon was established in the 1930s by the Christian Brothers as a farm school for boys. After the War, Bindoon became home for many migrant boys from the United Kingdom and Malta. Migration from the UK ceased in 1957 and in 1965 from Malta. The College in Bindoon was previously called Keaney College, however the name was changed after accusations of institutionalized cruelty to migrant and native children. Lake Chittering is a popular boating, fishing and swimming spot. The last country town passed through before reaching the outskirts of Perth is Muchea. It had its 5 minutes of fame in the early 1960s when the Muchea Tracking Station was established about 4 km outside of town as part of NASA's Mercury project. In 1962, the first Australian to speak with a space traveller did so from the Muchea facility. The station was closed in 1964. Continue to Perth on the Great Northern Highway. 341 km
Murchison/Pilbara Drive: 8 days
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Approx. cost for 2 people in a compact or mid-size car (meals etc. not included)
| Car hire |
8 days |
$720.00
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| Accommodation |
7 nights |
$700.00
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| Fuel |
9 litres/100km |
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If you want to see a big slice of Western Australia - that vast area to the south of the Kimberley region and to the north of Perth - then this is the drive for you. It follows the coast north from Perth all the way to Dampier, taking in Geraldton, Kalbarri, Shark Bay, Carnarvon, Ningaloo Reef and Exmouth Gulf. From Karratha, it then heads inland through the heart of the Pilbara, Western Australia's iron ore mining country, encompassing the mining towns of Tom Price and Newman and the spectacular gorges of the Hamersley Ranges (Karijini National Park). The return drive to Perth is via the inland route through the East Murchison Goldfields, and the outback goldmining towns of Meekatharra, Cue, Mt. Magnet and Paynes Find. Distance: 4,231 km
This is a long trip - 4,331 km - that's like driving from Los Angeles to New York and halfway back again, but through some of the most inhospitable and isolated country in the world. Eight days is also a relatively short time to cover such a vast distance; in reality it will very much be a flying visit. It can be done in that time, as I've done it myself, but it is preferable to treat the 8 days as the minimum amount of time required to do this trip. Not only will increasing the duration of the trip make it safer for those travelling, it will allow them time to see far more than what 8 days allows. The Pilbara region receives periods of torrential rainfall and is very hot between November and May, therefore travelling this route during those months is to be avoided. July to October are the recommended travelling months.
This drive shouldn't be attempted without a great deal of thought and preparation if you are not used to driving such long distances and over such isolated territory. The latter part of the drive is on the Great Northern Highway. It is among the remotest sealed roads in the world. Some sections are several hundred kilometres in length without so much as a roadhouse, so when you see a roadhouse, fill up there even if your fuel tank is not empty as you might not make it to the next fuel stop. The coastal road sees a reasonable amount of traffic, but when travelling on some stretches of inland road, yours may well be the only vehicle on it! There will be no mobile phone service available for the greater part of the journey either. The towns on the way are not what most people perceive a town to be; they are often small settlements with no more than a handful of people living there. Be assured, however, that if you are in trouble, they are always more than willing to help. If you have a breakdown and need replacement vehicle parts, these have to be brought in by road and can take anywhere from a few days to a week to reach you, depending on how isolated your location is. If you follow the instructions given here, you will be travelling on sealed roads all the way, except to visit some geographical features. To avoid getting lost, bogged or broken down, stick to the main roads and avoid taking shortcuts. Many outback tracks marked on maps disappeared years ago through lack of use, so don't be tempted to take one, even if it looks fine.
The inland roads in particular present several major hazards to travellers. Stray cattle and other grazing animals are particularly dangerous and prevalent throughout the Pilbara as potential roadkill. Camels, kangaroos and wedge-tailed eagles, although smaller, are also very dangerous, with wedge-tailed eagles particularly immobile after gorging on other roadkill. Driving at night is best avoided; being equipped with a good frontal roo bar and driving spotlights can help slightly, but is still very dangerous. That all having been said, a drive like this is the best way to see the Australian outback, and if you plan your trip well, making sure the motor vehicle you take is capable of covering this distance, and you follow the advice given here, chances are you will have a fabulous, event-free trip that will remain in your memory forever.
Travellers' Notes: Wheatbelt (Central Agricultural Region) | Murchison | Gascoyne | Pilbara (North-West)
Day 1: Leave Perth via Great Eastern Highway. At Midland, turn left into Great Northern Highway. Follow the highway to Muchea, turning left onto Brand Highway towards Geraldton. There is very little to stop and look at before reaching Dongara and Port Denison on Brand Highway, but there are roads to numerous coastal townships of Cervantes, Jurien, Leeman and Green Head along the way. All these coastal settlements known for their fishing, swimming, surfing and diving. The unique Pinnacles Desert of limestone monuments is located at Nambung National Park, near the beachside settlement of Cervantes. Access to Park is by 4-wheel drive vehicles only. The formations are actually the skeletal remains of trees that grew thousands of years ago. Cataby is the traditional stop for travellers, about 250 km north of Perth, with two roadhouses. Near Cataby is the Salt Lake and the Yandin lookout that (in good visibility days) offers views of surrounding countryside. Regan’s Ford is a nice picnic spot on the banks of the Moore River about half-way between Perth and Eneabba. The twin towns of Dongara & Port Denison, to the south of Geraldton, are well known for their crayfishing, fishing, wildflowers (from July to October) and provide a welcome stopover for travellers. Ellendale Pool, near Walkaway, is a natural freshwater pool formed by Greenough river and fed by underground springs. Between Dongara and Geraldton, the highway passes across the Greenough plains. Numerous buildings in the ghost town of Greenough have been brought back to life by locals and tells the story of the rise and fall of the Greenough community. The trees on Greenough Plains are unusual in that they have been so blown by prevailing winds, their trunks bend over and touch the earth. Geraldton is now known as the 'Sun City' because of the average of 8 hours sunshine per day and a warm dry climate. The port for the surrounding region, Geraldton is well known for its kilometres of long white beaches which attract swimmers, windsurfers and fishermen as well as those who just love beach walking. 424 km
Day 2: Drive north from Geraldton, passing through Northampton on the way to Kalbarri. Off the highway, Kalbarri is coastal town located on the mouth of the Murchison River. Kalbarri is on a stark but beautiful stretch of coastline with red coastal cliffs and gorges. Inland is Kalbarri National Park where the Murchison River winds its way through colourful gorges, which can be viewed from above or from within the gorges themselves. Bushwalking, canoeing the river and fishing are popular activities here. From July until November the park is transformed into a mosaic of colour with over 800 species of West Australian native wildflowers. Whales are often seen from the cliffs during those months. Return to the highway, and proceed north to Shark Bay; take Shark Bay Road. One of only a handful of regions in the world to gain World Heritage Listing, Shark Bay is teaming with a multiplicity of wildlife - it is at Shark Bay and Monkey Mia where wild dolphins interact with humans. Be aware that the stark and somewhat desolate-looking landscape can be disappointing to those who go to Shark Bay expecting something else, but if you go expecting to see nature at in its wildest, untamed state, you'll leave fulfilled. Spend the night at Denham. 560 km
Day 3: Return to North West Coastal Highway via Shark Bay Road, turn north and drive to Carnarvon. Known as the tropical gateway to the North, Carnarvon is a large and thriving town surrounded by banana plantations. The town also is the centre of an area which grows avocados, coconuts, dates, jojoba, macadamia nuts, mangoes, pawpaws, pecans, tomatoes, pineapples, melons and various varieties of beans. It is widely recognised that the biggest event in recent Carnarvon history was the establishment of the NASA tracking station in 1964. Its importance was based on the fact that it was the base which gave the command for the Trans Lunar Insertion (TLI) which actually sent the Apollo missions in to land on the moon. Perhaps its greatest moment came on 20 July 1969 when Neil Armstrong stepped out of Apollo 11. His famous words 'One small step for man. One giant leap for mankind' were relayed to the world via the tracking station at Carnarvon. It was finally closed down in 1974 because it became outmoded. North of Carnarvon are some of the most interesting sights on the whole of the Western Australian coast. These include The Blowholes, Quobba, Lake Macleod and the Wreck of the Korean Star. Take the road to Exmouth at the junction after Minilya Roadhouse. Coral Bay, the southern gateway to the Ningaloo Marine Park, is roughly midway between Carnarvon and Exmouth. Attractions around Exmouth include Ningaloo Reef offshore and Cape Range National Park 40kms south, with its deep canyons and panoramic vistas across Exmouth Gulf from clifftop lookouts. 687 km
Day 4: Proceed south from Exmouth on the Learmonth Minilya Road. Turn left at Burkett Road, then left onto North West Coastal Highway. Midway to Karratha is the road leading to Onslow, a quiet sleepy little town that has been all but obliterated by cyclones more times than the locals care to remember. It is home base to a major offshore natural gas and oilfield and the step-off point to Thevenard Island, Direction Island, Barrow Island and the Montebello Islands. After the war Onslow became an important strategic centre for the atomic experiments on the Montebello Islands. Add an extra day to the itinerary if you add Onslow to the drive. Proceed to Karratha. 566 km
Day 5: Use the morning to see Dampier and Karratha before commencing the 5 hr. journey to Tom Price. Take the road to the Hamersley Ranges, passing through the Roebourne, one of oldest towns in the Pilbara. On the way to Tom Price, stop off at Python Pool and Millstream. An attractive and modern mining town in the heart of the Pilbara, the town of Tom Price is literally sitting atop a mountain of iron ore. 337 km
Day 6: You will need a whole day (and plenty of fuel) to get a good look at the gorges of Karijini National Park. Make sure you are well prepared with at least a map of the area so you can travel as quickly as possible from one fabulous looking gorge to the next. There is plenty of variety in the scenery; make sure you visit the visitor centre at Tom Price before you leave to make the most of your day in the Park. Return to Tom Price at Night. 200 km
Day 7: Leave Tom Price early enough to complete the 8 1/2 hour drive to Meekatharra before nightfall; the road is long with few breaks or stops along the way. Newman, that other major iron mining town of the Pilbara, is 275 km down the road and is a good stopping place for a break and a bite to eat. The town's Museum, located in Kurra Street off Newman Drive, has an interesting display of relics from the town's brief history including the first Haulpak used at Mount Whaleback. For a view of the mine visit Radio Hill Lookout. North east of Newman is Rundall River National Park, which consists of spectacular desert land, but has no facilities. At 1,283,706 hectares, the Rudall River National Park is the largest national park in Western Australia and one of the largest in the world. It is also one of the most remote places in the world. The park sits on the boundary between the Great Sandy and Little Sandy Deserts. After leaving Newman, the only point of interest on the journey is the mountainous Collier Range National Park. 695 km
Day 8: The drive to Perth from Meekatharra is an all-day one; allow 9 hours travelling time plus stops. If you'd prefer to break the day's journey up into two days of travel, overnight accommodation is available at some of the wheatbelt town you pass through, like Dalwalinu (248 km from Perth) and New Norcia (132 km from Perth). The first stop on the journey to Perth is Cue, the town at the centre of the Murchison Goldfields a century ago. Almost a ghost town these days, Cue's fascinating history is reflected in the town's surviving buildings. Further down the road past Lake Austin is Mt. Magnet, another mining and service town on the edge of the desert. The Granites, a rocky outcrop spread over several hectares to the north of the town, have some striking Aboriginal art. Anthropologists believe that Wilgie Mia ochre mine, 70 km north-west of Cue, first started operating about 30,000 years ago. Walga Rock (48 km west of Cue) is a monolith 5 km around the base and 1.5 km long, the second largest in Australia. It has the largest gallery of Aboriginal rock paintings in Western Australia, including the mysterious rigged sailing ship. The origin of the painting is unknown, one theory says that it has been made by a Dutch sailor shipwrecked on the coast and looked after by aborigines, another - that it was made by an Afghan camel guide, as it contains what appear to be Arabic writing. Renowned for its glorious carpets of wildflowers during the season, Paynes Find is also recognised for its Gold Battery, which was established in 1911. It is the only working battery in the State. 292 km down the highway is Australia’s only Monastic Town - New Norcia. An extraordinary and unusual Spanish-influenced religious settlement in the middle of the dry, vast wheatbelt, New Norcia was established by Benedictine monks in 1847. They named it New Norcia after Norcia in Italy, the birthplace of the founder of the Order - Saint Benedict. 762 km
Travellers' Notes: South-West | Great Southern | Wheatbelt (Central Agricultural Region) | Eastern Goldfields | Murchison | Gascoyne | Pilbara (North-West) | Kimberley
Gt Southern and Eastern Goldfields Drive: 10 days
The first half of the trip takes you to the shores of Geographic Bay in Busselton, the Margaret River wine region with its vineyards and cheese and chocolate factories, on to the forests of Pemberton and the historic town of Albany. It return to Perth via Esperance, the goldfields city of Kalgoorlie and the Eastern Wheatbelt.
