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Cape York and Gulf Country, Queensland: Discovery Trails

Sweers Island: Located in the southern Gulf of Carpentaria, Sweers Island is surrounded by acres of rock reef, with some coral, much of which has never seen a fishing line. This, combined with the many rocky headlands on Sweers, make it a lure and fly fishing paradise. But it is also the perfect place for an away-from-it-all holiday and to view the unique Morning Glory cloud formations.


Cobbold Gorge: located within the rugged sandstone formations that dominate the local area 400km west of Cairns in north Queensland. This stunning gorge is extremely narrow, closing to a mere two meters wide in places, with spectacular 30 metre cliffs on either side. The Cobbold Gorge area is home to a diverse range of wildlife. Native fish abound in these waters, and of course, the freshwater or johnstone river crocodiles. A large variety of birds frequent the lower waterhole.


Morning Glory: a spectacular propagating roll cloud which frequents the sparsely populated southern margin of the Gulf of Carpentaria, it is one of the world's most exotic and interesting meteorological phenomena. Morning Glories are frequently observed during the spring months near dawn over the southern Gulf area between Sweers Island and the remote community of Burketown in northern Queensland. They often appear in the form of one or more, rapidly advancing, rather formidable roll cloud formations which extend from horizon to horizon in a long arc as far as the eye can see.


Cape Melville National Park: this remote park is characterised by the massive, tumbled granite boulders of the Melville Range, the sandstone escarpments of the Altanmoui Range and inland dunefields. The park features a diversity of plant communities including rainforest, mangroves, heathlands, woodlands and grasslands. All coastal waters surrounding Cape Melville National Park are included in the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park and Great Barrier Reef Coast Marine Park.


Chilli Beach: one of the most well known beaches of the Cape, Chilli Beach provides a welcome respite for travellers up and down the Cape. Surrounded by rainforest, the small community has well protected campsites and is a popular fishing spot. The beach is situated on the east coast near Iron Range National Park.



Cape Griffith

Iron Range National Park: a remote coastal park in northern Cape York Peninsula, it protects the largest area of lowland tropical rainforest in Australia. Rainforest, eucalypt and paperbark forests and heath-shrouded hills provide a backdrop to long sweeping beaches, rocky outcrops and mangrove forests. During World War II several Australian Army units were stationed in the area.


Flinders Group National Park: These ruggedly attractive and remote islands adjacent to Princess Charlotte Bay share their geology with the spectacular Cape Melville on the mainland, and contain some of Australia's most significant Aboriginal cultural sites. The group comprises seven islands which feature feature rocky shores, rugged sandstone cliffs, hills, escarpments and sand dunes.


Lakefield National Park: Queensland’s second largest park, it features spectacular wetlands and extensive river systems. Hann and Kalpowar crossings are two of the many significant Aboriginal cultural heritage sites featuring Quinkan figures to be found in this landscape. Within the Park is Laura Homestead, associated with the establishment of the cattle industry on Cape York Peninsula and the Palmer River Goldfields. Miners once used the track leading to the homestead as the main access to the goldfields.


Northern Territory Gulf Country: one of the most remote areas on earth, the Gulf region of the Top End is home to some of Australia's largest cattle stations, some of them the size of a small European country, it's here where those in the know come to enjoy a little solitude and some of the best fishing in Australia.

Bamaga: a town near the northern tip of Cape York, it is the administrative centre for the Northern Peninsula Area and most northerly town in Australia. A town with a population of around 2,000, it lies 983 km north of Cairns. The original site for the township of Bamaga was at Muttee Heads, some 20 km south of the present Bamaga township. The area is shrouded in history with culture and war memorabilia.
Tourist activities include Sight-seeing tours to Thursday Island; guided fishing and pig hunting tours; bird watching in the nearby Lockerbie Scrub rainforest; visiting World War II aircraft wrecks in the Bamaga area and also at Horn Island (near Thursday Island) and, of course, the obligatory photo shoot at the “Tip of Australia”.


Somerset: an historical ruin of Somerset homestead, a cattle station established by John Jardine (father of Frank Jardine) in 1863. Jardine who had visions of the town eventually becoming a major port. Relics of a fort remain. 35 km north of Bamaga, it is a good camping area and day trip with facilities for barbecues.


Possession Island: a small and seemingly insignificant island of the tip of Cape York, it was here, just before sunset on Wednesday 22nd August 1770, that British navigator Lieut. James Cook came ashore and took possession of the east coast of Australia under the name of South Wales (he later amended it to New South Wales). It set in motion a series of events that resulted in the establishment of the colony of New South Wales and later the commonwealth of Australia. A cairn marks the location.


Weipa: an isolated mining town and port on the west coast of Cape York. Weipa is run under a special act of the Queensland Parliament which gave the town the status of a Special Bauxite Mining Lease and handed control over to Comalco Aluminium. It is the closest town to the site of the first recorded landing of Europeans on Australian soil in 1606 by Dutchman Willem Janz.


Karumba: There is only one place on the Queensland shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria that can be reached by road, and it's a little town called Karumba. There are two ways to get there - north from Cloncurry on the Maltilda Highway, or west from Cairns on the Gulf developmental Road. The latter takes you through the Atherton Tablelands, then on to the Undara lava tubes, and the outback mining towns of Georgetown and Croydon, before reaching Normanton and Karumba.


Normanton: a charming outback cattle town near the Gulf of Carpentaria, located 712 km west of Cairns. he town is one terminus of the isolated Normanton to Croydon Railway, which was built during gold rush days in the 1890s. Among Normanton's most notable features is a statue of an 8.64 m long saltwater crocodile, named Krys, the largest ever shot, which was in the Norman River.


Ride The Gulflander: A legend in Gulf Country, the old Railmotor referred to locally as the Tin Hare has traversed the never-connected line between Normanton and Croydon for decades. A journey on the Gulflander is a tour back in time. The trip is far less primitive but still retains the romance of those days gone by. Fortunately nowadays the trip is far less primitive but still retains the romance of those days gone by.


The Savannahlander: a truly unique journey that travels all the way from Cairns to Forsayth, 423 kilometres away, over two days. Affectionately known as 'The Silver Bullet', the 1960's Savannahlander is one of the world's greatest rail experiences, offering passengers the opportunity to discover the outback in a very unique and comfortable way.


Lizard Island: the most northerly of the Great Barrier Reef resort islands. The island has 24 beaches, ideal for swimming or snorkelling. The Cod Hole is one Australia's best dive sites; deep sea game fishing is another popular activity. During his epic voyage of 1770, Lieut. James Cook climbed the peak on Lizard Island to chart a course out to sea through the maze of reefs which confronted him.

Burketown: An outback township on the edge of the Gulf of Carpentaria, Burketown has given itself the tag of 'The Barramundi Capital of Australia' and to prove its point, Burketown hosts the World Barramundi Fishing Championships every year. This leaves little doubt as to what the draws people to one of the most isolated communities in Australia. There are other attractions in the region, however, such as Lawn Hill National Park (246km south) and the Riversleigh Fossil Fields - and you haven't seen a spectacular cloud formation until you've seen Morning Glory.


Matilda Highway: Stretching from Barringun on the New South Wales border to Normanton in the Gulf of Carpentaria, the Matilda Highway is a place of colourful characters, remarkable history and a changing landscape. Fully sealed, the Matilda Highway is the backbone of the Outback and the access point for many different side trips for you to explore and discover more of Queensland’s Outback.


The Savannah Way: one of Australia's ultimate adventure drives, traversing the top end of Australia and linking Cairns in Tropical North Queensland with the historic pearling town of Broome in Western Australia, via the natural wonders of Australia's far north. Some sections of the road are suitable for 4-wheel drive vehicles only, but others are sealed, making it possible for anyone with a motor vehicle to complete sections of the drive.


Lawn Hill (Boojamulla): Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park is one of Queensland's most scenic national parks, featuring spectacular gorge country, sandstone ranges and significant fossils. The Waanyi Aboriginal people have strong cultural ties with the park, while pastoralists of European descent have recent historical connections. The World Heritage-listed Riversleigh fossil site is 55 km south of Lawn Hill Gorge.


Palmer River Goldfields, Laura: located on the eastern side of the Great Dividing Range at the bottom of Cape York Peninsula. Between 1873 & 1879, the Palmer River Goldfield, centred around the now the deserted townsites of Palmerville & Maytown, was Australia's richest alluvial field ever discovered. 


Croydon: an historic township in the heart of Gulf country and the terminus for the legendary Gulflander railway from Normanton 150 km to the east. At its peak it moved over 10 000 people each year.


Mckinlay: an isolated outback community whose great claim to fame is that the local pub, now known as the Walkabout Creek Hotel, was featured in the original Crocodile Dundee movie as Dundee's regular drinking spot.


Georgetown: a pleasant but sleepy small town in the Newcastle Range on the Etheridge River, Georgetown came to life during the Etheridge gold rush of 1870. It is today a centre for prime Brahman and Droughtmaster beef grazing country, as well as Cobbold Gorge; the gemfields of O'Briens Creek, Forsayth and Agate Creek, and Tallaroo Hot Springs.


Waterfalls of the Gulf Region: the dusty tracks for which the Gulf region is known contrast dramatically with the abundant rivers, crystal clear creeks and spectacular waterfalls.


Undara Lava Tubes: The Undara Lava Tubes near the small town of Mount Surprise 275 km south-west of Cairns, is one of Australia's great geological wonders. They are the largest, longest and most accessible lava tubes on earth.



Visiting The Region: The Facts

Best Time To Go: The best time to visit the region is between May and November in the dry season. Even then, August and September are the only months to tackle the Cape on your own if you are not an experienced 4-wheel driver. No matter what time of the year, after rain the roads are generally impassible, so check road conditions before starting your journey. You will also need to get permits to camp in certain areas around the Cape York Peninsula, which can be purchased at both the EPA and RACQ in Cairns.

Walks

Railways

How to Get There: Don't even think about driving up the Cape unless you intend coming in a 4-wheel drive vehicle, and have some experience in fording flooded rivers and beating your own path through the bush if attempting the drive outside of the months of August and September. After rain the roads are generally impassible, so check road conditions before starting your journey. You will also need to get permits to camp in certain areas around the Cape York Peninsula, which can be purchased at both the EPA and RACQ in Cairns.
If you are driving up from Cairns, and not detouring to Cooktown, Lakeland will be your last major chance to top up your food and grocery supplies. Lakeland to the tip is about 750 km on unsealed roads.
Reaching the Gulf of Carpentaria by road is a different kettle of fish. It's bitumen all the way to Karumba from Bourke, NSW (1,948km via Mitchell and Landsborough Hwys.), Cairns (752km via Gulf Development Rd) or Brisbane (2,156km via Warrego and Landsborough Hwys. and Burke Development Rd.

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