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Australia's Natural Wonders

The Totem Pole, Tas


Location: Tasman Peninsula, southern Tasmania


The Totem Pole


The Candlestick at the entrance to the chasm between the first of The Lanterns and the Cape Hauy headland. The Totem Pole is seen in the background


The cruise boat behind the Totem Pole give an accurate perspective of the size of the Totem Pole and The Candlestick (left) rock formations and surrounding cliffs

The Totem Pole and The Candlestick are two sea stacks at Cape Hauy on the eastern coast of the Tasman Peninsula in Tasmania's south-east corner. They were named by Tim Christie in 1965 when he climbed them. A 65 metre high slender column of natural dolerite, the Totem Pole is in a deep, shady, chasm between the first of The Lanterns formations and the headland of Cape Hauy. The Candelstick is a thicker, shorter chunk of dolerite which stands at the far entrance to the same chasm. In spite of its height, The Totem Pole is dwarfed by the surrounding rock towers and consequently gets sunlight for only a couple of hours a day.

The 65 metre high Totem Pole is dwarfed by the surrounding rocky spires (right).

The whole of the peninsula's coastal features are a haven for rock climbers, from Cape Raoul to Cape Pillar and up the east coast to Eaglehawk Neck. The development of many new sport climbs at Mt. Brown and the climbing of the Free Route on the Totem Pole has seen a resurgence in climbing on the Peninsula. Most of the climbing on the Peninsula depends on swell size more than anything. Generally the swell is bigger in winter, but there is nothing south between the Totem Pole and Antarctica, so big swells are possible (and even likely) all times of the year.

The Totem Pole is known to be one of the most difficult vertical climbs in Australia and one of the more popular attractions in the Tasmania region. It was first free climbed in 1995. American Mark Anderson claimed the second Ascent. In an article published on the Chockstone rock climbing website, a Victoria, Australia based website, Anderson describes the climb: "The height of the thing and the perspective from the Cape gives the illusion that it actually gets wider and thicker as it gets taller, which is a stunning illusion! And that doesn't even consider the setting of the Totem Pole, which is simply surreal. The climbing is absolutely awesome. The rock is excellent, the moves are enjoyable, and the setting is completely unmatched. In terms of pure enjoyment and satisfaction, it was one of the best climbing days I've ever had! It sounds cliched, but a route like that is the reason you learn to climb."
The Candlestick and the Totem Pole can be reached by an hours walk to Cape Hauy from Fortescue Bay, via a turn off to a few kms before Port Arthur. There are other great coastal walks on the Peninsula that take in some spectacular scenery, such as Cape Raoul and Cape Pillar - the walk out to Cape Hauy to contemplate the singularity of the Totem Pole is a must. There are also some sea caves and other natural features that don't require walking, including Tasman Arch, Remarkable Cave, and the Tessellated Pavement at Eaglehawk Neck.

Below: The Candlestick and Totem Pole are on the far side of The Lanterns rock formation of Cape Hauy


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Climbing the Totem Pole
Tasman National Park