It is important that 4WDrivers understand the operation of free-wheeling hubs and the transfer-box gear selection.
On bitumen or other hard surfaces, the vehicle should be in 2WD, high ratio all the times; and if it is a constant 4WD, in normal gear, the centre diff should not be locked.
Some people engage 4WD as soon as they see dirt, which leads to unnecessary wear and tear, as well as increased fuel consumption. If you can easily manage in 2WD, try to refrain from switching to 4WDriving.
In 4WDs with manual free wheeling hubs, always remember to disengage the hubs and shift back to 2WD as soon as you get onto the bitumen; or you can damage the vehicle.
A 4WD isn’t a guarantee that you won’t get bogged, but it will help you get bogged less often.The downside is that when you do get bogged, it’s normally deeper and further into the quagmire than with a normal car.
Corrugations
These are ruts in the road normally found on gravel and dirt roads. They are not pleasant to drive over and you need to be careful when approaching them. Obviously, going too fast over them can be very dangerous, as well as detrimental to you and your car. However, whilst going too slow might not be as dangerous, it will be tiring for you and wearing on your vehicle.
In some cases the corrugations are so bad that you have no choice but to slow down to a crawl. However, in most cases where the road is otherwise safe and visibility is good, a speed of around 80kmh is perhaps the optimum; as the vehicle will tend to ‘float” across the hollows, giving a smoother ride.
In every case, it is a question of sensible judgment. If in doubt, slow down.Your driving may be affected by your car’s suspension. Poor shock absorbers and over-inflated tyres will make you feel every bump!
When Off the Main Roads
If you’re unsure of the ground ahead, especially if there is mud or water, get out and check.
Always keep your thumbs outside of, or on the edge of, the steering wheel as irregularities in the track can suddenly make the steering wheel turn with great force; which can cause a serious bruise or break to the thumbs etc.
Free wheeling hubs, which enable the 4WD front differential to be disengaged when driving, don’t provide off-road capability automatically. Free wheeling hubs are designed to allow you to use the vehicle in 2WD; hence the vehicle suffers less wear to the differential and front running gear, and enjoys better fuel economy. So if your vehicle has manual hubs, you must lock them in and engage 4WD to get drive from the front as well as the rear wheels.
If you don’t lock in the hubs and engage 4WD, the vehicle will remain in 2WD mode. This can be dangerous!
Sand
Speed and flotation are the keys to success whilst driving in the sand.
Having the correct tyre pressure is very important in sand. Generally 140kPa (20psi) is a good starting point. However, if you’re heavily loaded, this may be too low and 175kPa (25psi) may be more appropriate.
If you’re lightly loaded, or the vehicle is still bogging down, then 105kPa (15psi) may be the way to go for short distances.
On bitumen or other hard surfaces, the vehicle should be in 2WD, high ratio all the times; and if it is a constant 4WD, in normal gear, the centre diff should not be locked.
Some people engage 4WD as soon as they see dirt, which leads to unnecessary wear and tear, as well as increased fuel consumption. If you can easily manage in 2WD, try to refrain from switching to 4WDriving.
In 4WDs with manual free wheeling hubs, always remember to disengage the hubs and shift back to 2WD as soon as you get onto the bitumen; or you can damage the vehicle.
A 4WD isn’t a guarantee that you won’t get bogged, but it will help you get bogged less often.The downside is that when you do get bogged, it’s normally deeper and further into the quagmire than with a normal car.
These are ruts in the road normally found on gravel and dirt roads. They are not pleasant to drive over and you need to be careful when approaching them. Obviously, going too fast over them can be very dangerous, as well as detrimental to you and your car. However, whilst going too slow might not be as dangerous, it will be tiring for you and wearing on your vehicle.
In some cases the corrugations are so bad that you have no choice but to slow down to a crawl. However, in most cases where the road is otherwise safe and visibility is good, a speed of around 80kmh is perhaps the optimum; as the vehicle will tend to ‘float” across the hollows, giving a smoother ride.
In every case, it is a question of sensible judgment. If in doubt, slow down.Your driving may be affected by your car’s suspension. Poor shock absorbers and over-inflated tyres will make you feel every bump!
If you’re unsure of the ground ahead, especially if there is mud or water, get out and check.
Always keep your thumbs outside of, or on the edge of, the steering wheel as irregularities in the track can suddenly make the steering wheel turn with great force; which can cause a serious bruise or break to the thumbs etc.
Free wheeling hubs, which enable the 4WD front differential to be disengaged when driving, don’t provide off-road capability automatically. Free wheeling hubs are designed to allow you to use the vehicle in 2WD; hence the vehicle suffers less wear to the differential and front running gear, and enjoys better fuel economy. So if your vehicle has manual hubs, you must lock them in and engage 4WD to get drive from the front as well as the rear wheels.
If you don’t lock in the hubs and engage 4WD, the vehicle will remain in 2WD mode. This can be dangerous!
Speed and flotation are the keys to success whilst driving in the sand.
Having the correct tyre pressure is very important in sand. Generally 140kPa (20psi) is a good starting point. However, if you’re heavily loaded, this may be too low and 175kPa (25psi) may be more appropriate.
If you’re lightly loaded, or the vehicle is still bogging down, then 105kPa (15psi) may be the way to go for short distances.