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Beyond Darwin: Litchfield National Park



Litchfield National Park protects good examples of most of the Top End habitats. It also features numerous waterfalls which cascade from a sandstone plateau called the Tabletop Range, intriguing magnetic termite mounds, historical sites, and the weathered sandstone pillars of the Lost City.

Being less than two hours drive and just over 100 km south-west of Darwin, Litchfield National Park makes the perfect same day destination for visitors to Darwin wanting to experience the bush in the Top End without going too far off the beaten track.

The Park contains several types of typical Top End habitats including lush monsoon forests, magnetic termite mounds, unusual rock formations, numerous waterfalls (Florence, Tolmer and Wangi Falls are definitely worth seeing) and cascades. The weathered sandstone pillars of The Lost City are worth a look, but a 4 wheel drive vehicles is required. Otherwise, an ordinary car will take you to most features.

The Park encloses much of the spectacular Tabletop Range, which is a wide sandstone plateau mostly surrounded by cliffs. During the monsoon season, from October to May, four major waterfalls thunder from the cliffs to tropical rock pools many metres below. During the rest of the year the waterfalls flow more gently, making the waterholes perfect spots for a cool dip. This Park is spectacular at any time, though most 4WD tracks are closed during the wet season, such as the one to the Lost City. Blythe Homestead is a step back in history.



Unlike Florence Falls (above), some swimming areas such as Wangi Falls become unsafe after heavy rain and are closed for swimming but the kiosk and picnic facilities remain open. Buley Rockhole is a series of rock pools joined by small waterfalls where you can sit in the waterfall and have a natural spa. Some of the rock pools are so deep you can dive into them.

Wildlife and Flora

The Park’s central sandstone plateau supports rich woodland flora communities dominated by species including the Darwin Wollybutt (Eucalyptus miniata) and Darwin Stringybark (Eucalyptus tetrodonta) as well as banksias, grevilleas, terminalias and a wide variety of other woodland species. Patches of monsoon rainforest thrive in the deep, narrow gorges created over thousands of years by the force of the waterfalls cutting into the escarpment walls. Common wildlife species include the Antilopine Wallaroo, Agile Wallaby, Sugar Glider, Northern Brushtail Possum, Fawn Antechinun, Black and Little Red Flying Foxes and the Dingo.

The caves near Tolmer Falls are home to a colony of the rare Orange Horseshoe Bat. Litchfield is a haven for hundreds of native bird species. Black kites and other birds of prey are common during the Dry Season. The Yellow Oriole, Figbird, Koel, Spangled Drongo, Dollarbird and the Rainbow Bee-eater inhabit the sheltered areas close to waterfalls.

Walking Tracks

Quiet walks leave from most popular sites. Signs in the carparks and along the tracks will show you the way. They vary between short strolls and walks of 1 to 3 km. If you are planning an overnight walk you’ll need to obtain a permit prior to your visit from the PWCNT office in the Goyder Centre, Palmerston, Ph: 8999 4524.

Camping

There are many camping areas located throughout the Park, as well as picnic areas. Some waterholes are safe to swim in.

How to get there: drive south from Darwin via the Stuart Highway to Batchelor. Follow the signs from the Batchelor township. The Park is generally accessible all year, and on sealed roads all the way. In the dry season it is also possible to get to the Park via Cox Peninsula Road (which is unsealed).

Highlights



Tolmer Gorge and Falls

Tolmer Gorge, through which a creek flows before tumbling over Tolmer Falls, is situated in Litchfield National Park, less than two hours drive south of Darwin, NT. Tolmer Falls is one of three major waterfalls along the western face of the tabletop range which runs through Litchfield National Park. More large waterfalls are found along the western face of the Tabletop Range because the plateau slopes slightly to the west. Frederick Henry Litchfield named the falls in 1865. Tolmer was the son of a French abbot, who arrived in South Australia where he joined the police force and was active in apprehending bushrangers


Wangi Falls

Wangi Falls is the largest and most popular attraction in the park, with a large grassed picnic area and toilets. Access to the plunge pool is easy with steps provided. Wangi Falls is a registered sacred site that is used by the local aboriginal women. Swimming is allowed here, but restrictions apply during the wet season once the water reaches a preset level.



The Lost City

The Northern Territory is blessed with not one but two natural rock formations which, because the rocks there are shaped and arranged in a form that resembles stuctures built by lost civilisations centuries ago, have been called The Lost City. The formation generally refered to as The Lost City is a natural formation found within Litchfield National Park to the south of the Northern Territory capital of Darwin. The Lost City was formed by thousands of years of wind and rain erosion whose walls, narrow passages and domes give the impression that they were man made. These complex freestanding sandstone block and pillar formations suggest the ruins of a long forgotten civilization of an amazing race.

Spread over an area the size of a small town, they look like the ruins of a city with a maze of narrow alleys. The sandstone rock is estimated to be over 500 million years old. Some have said that its strange sandstome formations look like buildings, castles, animals, statues, people and aborigines playing their didgeridoo. Accessible is via an 8 to 10 km four-wheel-drive track that becomes more difficult as you approach the formation. Beyond the Lost City are weathered sandstone escarpments and black soil plains, dotted with fascinating magnetic termite mounds, contrast with patches of monsoonal rainforest. Other remote locations accessible on four-wheel drive tracks are Tjaynera Falls (Sandy Creek), the road to Blyth Homestead accessible on four-wheel drive tracks.



Florence Falls

The only major waterfall on the eastern face of the Tabletop Range although many small creeks flow off this side of the range. A short walk from the car park brings you to a lookout over the gorge with excellent views of Florence Falls and the contrast between the wet monsoon forest and the dry sandstone plateau. A walking path follows the gorge rim from the rim-top lookout to a series of stairs (135 steps) descending to the valley floor. After the descent the walkway crosses Florence Creek, a tranquil stretch of water flowing through the rainforest. A short walk leads to the plunge pool.



Tjaynera Falls

This waterfall (also known as Sandy Creek Falls) is accessible by 4WD only. A small campground is available with toilets and showers. There is approximately 1.4kms walk to the pool at the base of the falls. The car park is on the site of a timber cutting camp used during the mid 1900’s when Paperbark and Cypress was cut as Mill Timber.



Buley Rock Pools

Buley Rock Pools is a popular swimming oasis on the way to Litchfield National Park. It features a seemingly endless cascade of river and deep pools stepped down one after the other. When the residents of Darwin are feeling hot and bothered and need a place to relax and cool off, this is where they go. Because of this, and it being on the way to Litchfield, it can get very crowded with both locals and tourists josstling first for a parking spot and then a place to take a dip, so if you are a visitor, try and avoid coming here on a weekend, public holiday or during school holidays.



Surprise Falls

This waterfall is the most southern falls on the 4WD track to Daly River Road. A small camp ground is also available. A walk of approximately 300 metres from the carpark to a series of rockholes linked with small waterfall.




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