Lorient, France
Lorient, a relatively new town founded in the 17th century, has
fragments of world history intermingled with its heritage and
landscapes. Its houses, beaches and quays tell tales of the conquest of
India and the East Indies, deep sea fishing, the Second World War, the
growing popularity of ocean racing and the restored pride of the Celtic
nations.
Facing East.
The French East India Company, or Compagnie des Indes, was established
in 1664 in the heart of the bay, at Port-Louis. Operations rapidly
spread to the other side of the river Scorff. In the new shipyards a
ship named Soleil d’Orient, but nicknamed L’Orient, was built –
and the new town had a name! Up until Company’s closure, the city took
advantage of its prosperity. In 1738, there were 14,000 inhabitants, or
20,000 considering the outlying villages of Kerentrech, Merville, La
Perrière, Calvin, and Keryado, which are now neighbourhoods
comprised in the present-day city limits. In 1735, new streets were
laid down and in 1738, it was granted city status.
The French Royal Navy opened a base there in 1690, under the command of
Colbert de Seignelay, who inherited his father’s position as Secretary
of State of the Navy. At the same time, privateers from Saint-Malo took
shelter there. In 1700, the town grew out of l’Enclot following a law
forcing people to leave the domain to move to the Faouedic heath. The
view of the Port-Louis citadel and the harbour, with the Tour de la
Decouverte signal tower and the Gabriel sales rooms recall the
prosperity of the colourful days of silks and spices.
As Lorient’s business activities developed and diversified, ports were
built to match: a military port, a commercial port at Kergroise, and a
fishing port at Kéroman – now France’s second largest fishing
port. The quayside and the fish auctions are a hive of activity every
morning, involving men, boats and machines. Sparklingly fresh fish and
seafood are taken straight to the indoor market at Merville.
Lorient is located on the south coast of Brittany, where the Scorff
river and the Blavet river join to form the roadstead of Lorient,
before discharging into the Atlantic Ocean. To the south of the city,
the Ter river used to flow into the estuary as well, but a dam was
built in 1967, so it is now a pond. The city is 503 km south-west of
Paris, 153 km south-west of Rennes and 158 kilometres north-west of
Nantes.
Plan and Book:
Lorient, France: See and Do
Once a base for French colonialism, Lorient boasts the Musˆ©e de la Compagnie des Indes, a museum displaying artifacts from 1660 to the end of the 18th century. A
submarine base was set up there by the German army between 1941 and
1943. Today, these concrete blocks pose no threat. They’ve become a
museum of submersible craft and the submarineFlore, which is now a
visitor attraction. In the centre of town, a bomb shelter has been
re-opened to show what life was really like at that time. In the
town’s streets, Art Deco houses from the 1930s that survived the
bombings stand side by side with post-war buildings constructed in a
more contemporary style.
The marina and ferry port are flooded every year by a human wave that’s
here to celebrate the Celtic nations. With a glorious mix of kilts,
Breton bagpipes, Irish fiddles and Galician pipes, the Festival
Interceltique celebrates a thriving culture. After the grand parade
opened by the local Lann-Bihoue pipe band, there follows a succession
of concerts, ‘fest-noz’ and great feasts, full of warmth and
friendliness.
To help you recover from all the excitement of the town, the coastline
extends as far as the Laita estuary. Facing the bay that is like a
little inland sea, Larmor-Plage has all the allure of a Brittany
Riviera. A coastal walk takes you past the villas and carries on
westwards, with the Ile de Groix on the horizon. Facing the ocean is a
string of beaches and harbours. Lomener is a pleasant spot to stop for
a rest before continuing to Le Fort-Bloque, with its 18th century fort
that is accessible at low tide. Then you come to the beaches at
Guidel-plages, a popular spot among surfers. Between Finistere and
Morbihan is Bas-Pouldu beach, and here the landscape changes as the
wooded shores, sandbanks and river meet the Atlantic tides.
Lorient Submarine Base
In 1941, the Germans, then occupying France, chose to establish one
of their U-boat headquarters in Keroman, a neighborhood of Lorient. But
the submarines quickly became targets of constant bombing from Allied
air forces. The Germans decided to build five U-boat bases on France’s
Atlantic Coast – at Brest, Lorient (Keroman), St Nazaire, La Rochelle
and Bordeaux – and a Mediterranean base at Toulon. The largest of
these, in Keroman, would house the 2nd and the 10th U-boat flotillas
for the bulk of the Battle of the Atlantic. Karl Donitz, then supreme
commander of the U-boat Arm, moved his staff in the Kernevel villa,
just across the water from Keroman, in Larmor-Plage. The construction
required the participation of 15,000 workers. The three bases have
impressive dimensions and were constructed and subsequently coined KI,
KII, KIII. The submarine base area has changed over the years.
In 1943–1944, Lorient was nearly razed to the ground by Allied
bombing, which failed to destroy the submarine pens, despite 4,000 tons
of bombs dropped. According to the book, “Steel Boats, Iron Hearts”, by
former U-505 crewman Hans Goebeler, after the allies failed to damage
the U-Boat bunkers the bombing shifted to the city itself in order to
deny the Germans workers and other resources. Before these bombings,
thousands of leaflets were dropped on the population instructing the
inhabitants to evacuate. It is now is open to the public: offering an
amazing blend of history, water sports, and tourism and future projects
still to come.
The submarine base has now been re-launched, setting sail for its
new vocation as an ocean racing centre. Its flagship is the Cite de la
Voile Eric Tabarly (Sailing World). On a vessel built of metal and
glass, visitors can start learning about the world of yachting with
fun, interactive workshops.
Inter-Celtic Festival
If you come in the region of Lorient in August, you can be present
at the Lorient’s Inter-Celtic Festival. Celebrating Celtic music, the
festival is held every year during the first two weeks of August.
Groups of Celtic regions and countries come together to bring Celtic
culture to life with live music, dance, art, literature and more
besides.
Island of Groix
Ile de Groix (the island of Groix) is located off the coast of
Lorient. Groix is 8 km long and 3 km wide so it is possible to visit
the island on foot or by bike. During winter its population is around
2323 inhabitants, but it can be increased by 10 in summer. Groix has
kept its charm thanks to its little streets, traditional houses and its
wild shore where the visitor can easily go to and fro through
pedestrian paths. Ferries from Lorient take around 45 minutes to arrive
at Port Tudy, Groix’s main town. The port was France’s main centre for
tuna fishing from 1870-1940 and you can find out about the industry’s
fascinating history at the Ecomusée. The museum traces the
island’s history from the Bronze Age covering all aspects of the
inhabitants’ lives from birth to death.
The best way to see Groix is on two feet or two wheels: bicycles can
be hired in the village. More than 40km of cycle paths will take you
over moorland, alongside ancient megaliths, past the soaring cliffs of
the Trou de Tonnere (thunder hole) and the Trou d’Enfer (hell hole) to
hidden coves and beautiful sandy beaches. Groix’s most famous
stretch of sand is the Plages des Grandes Sables in the east of the
island. According to islanders, it’s the only convex beach in
Europe and its tip moves each year due to opposing currents. South of
here are Les Sables Rouges, an attractive succession of sandy coves.
Gulf of Morbihan
The Gulf of Morbihan is a natural harbour in the south of Brittany,
situated at 50 km from Ploemeur. In the temperate south of Brittany,
the Gulf of Morbihan has been described as one of the most beautiful
bays in the world. From Locmariaquer and its ancient stones in the
west, taking in the walled town of Vannes, on to the Rhuys Peninsula in
the east, the gulf has something for all tastes. The most unusual
feature of the gulf is its islands; there are around 42. Many are owned
by celebrities but the two largest, Île aux Moines and Île
d’Arz, are favourite tourist destinations in summer. The
cross-shaped Île aux Moines offers scenic walks around its 4
miles (7km) coast while Arz has lovely creeks and coves to enjoy a dip.
One of the most popular activities is to take a boat trip around the
gulf from Vannes, however, many visitors take the boat from
Larmor-Baden to see the island of Gavrinis, probably the most
impressive megalithic site in Brittany, whose long stone passageway is
adorned with carvings.
Morbihan is rich in megalithic sites, nowhere more so than
Locmariaquer. On the outskirts of this unremarkable village are three
very impressive constructions: Le Grand Menhir, now on the ground in
four pieces, is the largest stone ever erected in prehistoric Europe;
the Table des Marchands stone burial chamber has engravings similar to
those at Gavrinis and Er Grah is a 140 metre long tumulus. The lovely
walled town of Vannes is a must on any visit to Morbihan. Take a walk
around the narrow, cobbled streets, through the medieval gates, before
settling down for lunch at a café alongside the attractive
marina. If you’re with the kids, head down to the Parc du Golfe
for a look around the aquarium and Jardin aux Papillons (butterfly
garden). The town is the hub of activities during the biennial Semaine
du Golfe sailing festival.
On the east side of the gulf is the Rhuys Peninsula, whose most
popular attraction besides the seaside resort of Arzon is the
13th-century Chateau de Suscinio, one-time hunting lodge of the Dukes
of Brittany, where they hold outdoor musical evenings in summer. The
Parc du Golfe is about a mile south of the Vannes town centre and it’s
here that you join boat trips around the Gulf of Morbihan. Vannes is 55
minutes by bus from Lorient.
Vannes
The walled town of Vannes is without doubt one of Brittany’s most
attractive sights and a must-visit on any trip to Morbihan. Wander
around the well-preserved medieval streets before enjoying a
harbour-side lunch then taking a boat trip around the gulf. Kids will
love the aquarium and butterflies. Vannes has two museums within its
walls: the Chateau Gaillard, a 15th-century mansion house, accommodates
the museum of archaeology and the town’s history while La Cohue,
a 13th-century covered market that hosted the Breton Parliament from
1675-89, is now the museum of fine arts.
Outside the town walls to the east is the Chateau de l’Hermine,
which was once the home of the Duke of Brittany but is now an
exhibition space; its lovely public gardens host the Images de la Mer
photography festival in May. Vannes has a full annual events calendar,
which includes a jazz festival in August. The Parc du Golfe is about a
mile south of the town centre and it’s here that you join boat trips
around the Gulf of Morbihan. This is also the place to head for with
kids, as there’s an aquarium with a huge collection of tropical fish
and the Jardin aux Papillons, a glass dome filled with vegetation where
hundreds of butterflies fly free. Further south still is the Conleau
Peninsula, where you’ll find Vannes’ only beach. Vannes is 55
minutes by bus from Lorient.
Concarneau
As well as being France’s third most important fishing port,
Concarneau has other assets that make it a very popular summer resort.
The main draw is the quaint ville close (walled town) followed by some
lovely sandy beaches and a lively maritime festival in August.
Concarneau has made its living from the fishing industry for hundreds
of years and the town remains an important centre: more than 100,000
tonnes of tuna are caught each year by Concarneau-based boats.
It’s possible for tourists to visit the fish auction, canneries
and also sometimes to assist the deep-sea fishermen to unload their
catch. But more adventurous sorts might like to join an organised trip
on an old sardine boat to try their own hand.
The ville close is without doubt Concarneau’s most popular tourist
attraction. This old stone fortified town has just a few narrow streets
filled with shops and restaurants, where geraniums tumble from window
boxes. Take a walk around the ramparts for spectacular views over the
area. Near the entrance to the ville close is the Musee de la Peche,
where visitors can learn all about the fishing industry and visit an
old trawler. Several scenic walks start in Concarneau, such as the
pushchair-friendly route through Kerandon wood, but the most pleasant
is probably the coastal path from Quai de la Croix, past the splendid
villas, to the Sables Blancs beach. Here, in July and August, you’ll
find water and land-based activities to suit adults and children alike.
On the outskirts of Concarneau is the Chateau de Keriolet, a fine
example of 19th-century Gothic architecture, part of which dates back
to the 15th century. Restored to its former glory, the house is now
open for guided visits. One of Brittany’s most colourful and
authentic festivals takes place in Concarneau in August: Le Festival
des Filets Bleus. This festival of ‘blue nets’ celebrates the town’s
fishing industry with traditional music and dancing, sea shanties and a
smorgasbord of fishy fare. Concarneau can be reached by train from
Lorient via Rosporden (approx. 55 mins).
Quimper
Quimper is generally regarded as the cultural heart of Brittany. The
town is known for its cathedral, atmospheric old quarter and museums
but most of all for its annual festival celebrating Breton culture.
Quimper gets its name from the Breton kemper, which refers to the
junction of two rivers: the Steir and the Odet. The Odet, generally
regarded as Brittany’s prettiest river, runs east to west,
parallel to the old town, and enters the sea at Benodet – why not
take a boat trip? The river is crossed by little bridges, which are
lined with pretty geranium-filled boxes.
Quimper’s most impressive building is its cathedral, which is said
to be the best example of Gothic religious architecture in Brittany.
Building started in the 12th century and continued at intervals until
the 19th century, when the two spires were constructed and new stained
glass windows were installed. The cathedral is named after St Corentin,
Quimper’s first bishop. Next to the cathedral is the former
Bishop’s Palace, which is now the Musée
Départmental Breton. The museum displays finds from
archaeological digs around Brittany and is highly regarded for its
collection of Breton costumes and furniture. Quimper’s other
museum of note is the Musee des Beaux Arts, which has a fine collection
of paintings from renowned Breton artists and the Pont Aven School.
That summer, the Musée des Beaux Arts will host a fascinating
and unique Picasso Exhibition ‘The Eternal Feminine’, the first in
France to include a selection of works lent by Malaga’s Fundaciun
Picasso.
Festival de Cornouaille
West of the cathedral is the atmospheric old town, where you’ll find
many half-timbered houses dating from the 14th century. The streets are
named after old job titles and Place au Beurre, where butter was sold,
is one of Quimper’s prettiest locations and good place to stop for a
crepe. The old market hall burned down in 1976 but the new Halles St
Francis (open daily) are particularly lively on Saturday mornings.
Quimper is known throughout Brittany and the Celtic world for its
Festival de Cornouaille, which takes place for a week each July and
celebrates Breton culture in all its forms. Quimper is 34 minutes by
train from Lorient.
Carnac
Carnac is known throughout the world for its unique rows of ancient
standing stones. The town is split into two areas: Carnac-Ville, where
you’ll find the Museum of Prehistory, and Carnac-Plage, a family
seaside resort with a state-of-the-art thalassotherapy centre. Oyster
farming is big business here. Carnac-Plage has five sheltered sandy
beaches, which are backed by attractive 19th-century villas and pine
trees. Grande Plage is popular with families; St-Colomban is the place
for wind- and kite-surfers. If you don’t want to lie on the
beach, take the coastal path to the sailing Mecca of
La-Trinité-sur-Mer or book some treatments in the
thalassotherapy centre.
The Carnac stones are an exceptionally dense collection of megalithic
sites around the French village of Carnac, consisting of alignments,
dolmens, tumuli and single menhirs. More than 3,000 prehistoric
standing stones were hewn from local rock and erected by the pre-Celtic
people of Brittany, and are the largest such collection in the world.
Most of the stones are within the Breton village of Carnac, but some to
the east are within La Trinité-sur-Mer. The stones were erected
at some stage during the Neolithic period, probably around 3300 BC, but
some may date to as old as 4500 BC. The best place to start is the
Maison des Mégalithes, where you can watch a film in English
about the site as well as buy some books in the on-site shop. Since the
stones are now fenced off to the public, it’s a good idea to book
a guided tour; visits are conducted in English in July and August.
Auray
Auray is a pretty town to the east of Vannes and on an estuary to
the north-west corner of the Gulf of Morbihan. There are two, more or
less separate, parts to the town: The main town and the historical
centre of Auray on the top of the hill; The port town of Saint Goustan,
on the bank of the Auray River below. Both will be visited as part of
the same trip. Although the Saint-Goustan quarter of the town contains
most of the highlights, Auray on the hill is a pleasant town that has
quite a few interesting features to be discovered. Less well known to
visitors and just a few kilometres north of Auray / Saint-Goustan the
village of Saint-Anne-d’Auray is a most unexpected and interesting
pilgrimage centre, a sort of small version of Lourdes.
Saint Goustan is the ‘traditional picture postcard” side of this pair of Brittany towns. Best described as small yet perfectly formed, the port was originally developed in the 17th century as a fishing port and stands at the head of an estuary that leads to the Morbihan Gulf and Quiberon Bay (hence easily accessible by small boats, which are sheltered from the weather here). Saint Goustan is reached across a pretty stone bridge that crosses the Auray River as it meanders around the port to enter the estuary.
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