Portofino, Italy
Portofino is so quintessentially Italian, so synonymous with the
Italian Riviera, that it’s hard to imagine that at one time it was
actually part of France … but it was! From 1805 to 1815 that feisty,
self-proclaimed Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte decided to annex the entire
region into his empire. Ever since Pliny the Elder founded Portofino,
this wonderful corner of the Mediterraean has been a magnet for leisure
seekers. Pliny, a Roman author, naturalist, and natural philosopher, as
well as naval and army commander of the early Roman Empire, named it
Portus Delphini, or Port of the Dolphin, because of the large number of
dolphins that inhabited the Tigullian Gulf. In the late 19th century,
first British, then other Northern European aristocratic tourists began
to visit Portofino, which they reached by horse and cart from Santa
Margherita Ligure. Aubrey Herbert and Elizabeth von Arnim were amongst
the more famous English people to make the area fashionable. Eventually
more expatriates built expensive vacation houses, and by 1950 tourism
had supplanted fishing as the town’s chief industry, the waterfront
became a continuous ring of restaurants and cafes, and the focal point
of this playground for the rich and famous.
The nearest railway station, S. Margherita Ligure-Portofino, is about 5
km away in Santa Margherita Ligure. A train from Genoa takes around 45
minutes. Catch bus 82 from outside the S. Margherita Ligure-Portofino
station to Portofino. Purchase tickets before boarding from the station
cafe. 3 euro one way, 5 euro return. Much more relaxing, however, is a
pleasant ferry ride along the coast. In summer, there is one direct
daily departure in each direction from Genoa. It is scheduled to allow
a pleasant day trip. Otherwise, the region’s well-developed ferry
network provides various connections that could get you to Portofino
with a change of boats in such as Santa Margherita Ligure.
The closest major airport to Portofino is the Christopher Columbus
airport in Genoa (Aeroporto Cristoforo Colombo di Genova – (IATA:
GOA)). From there you can rent a car, as it is a relatively short (22
1/4 miles, 35.8 km) ride. Overall the drive takes a little over an
hour, due partly to some light traffic leaving Genoa and mostly to the
roads once you leave the major highway (the A12). A warning to nervous
drivers, the streets are quite narrow and windy, as you might expect in
a European/Riviera town. Proceed with caution, especially around
corners and be alert!
Two other options if you are unable to get to Genoa are Nice, France
(Aeroport Nice Cote D’Azur – (IATA: NCE)) and Milan, Italy (Milan
Malpensa – (IATA: MXP)). They are a bit farther away but within driving
distance and the drive(s) are beautiful.
The nearest railway station, S. Margherita Ligure-Portofino, is about 5
km away in Santa Margherita Ligure. A train from Genoa takes around 45
minutes and costs around 3 euros. Catch bus 82 from outside the S.
Margherita Ligure-Portofino station to Portofino. Purchase tickets
before boarding from the station cafe.
Much more relaxing is a pleasant ferry ride along the coast. In summer,
there is one direct daily departure in each direction from Genoa. It is
scheduled to allow a pleasant day trip. Otherwise, the region’s
well-developed ferry network provides various connections that could
get you to Portofino with a change of boats in such as Santa Margherita
Ligure. Expect the ride to take a little longer than driving, but it
will certainly be far less nervewrecking!
One final option should you happen to have the resources, just sidle
into the harbour or a cove in your personal yacht. Portofino is a
popular destination for the world’s wealthy, and the luxurious yachts
constantly dot the horizon in this lovely Mediterranean port.
Plan and Book:
Overview
Portofino is on the ‘Italian Riviera’ a loose term usually applied to the stretch of coast in Liguria which borders France. Like its neighbour, the more famous French Riviera, this coastline boasts blue seas, stately resorts with casinos and palms waving along the promenade, and attractive inland villages. The blue waters, the attractive coastline and beaches, and the exceptionally mild climate have long been the Italian Riviera’s biggest attractions. Sheltered from the north by the Maritime Alps, the strip of land by the sea has a micro-climate of its own; with sunshine and comfortable temperatures the whole year round.
Once in Portofino, walking might be your best option. The town is
not large and most hotels and beaches are a short walk from the
harbour. Alternatively, mopeds seem to be a popular choice for getting
about, especially for those people visiting several of the small
regional towns like Paraggi or San Fruttuoso on their own schedule.
Once again, should you be fortunate enough to have a boat at your
disposal, that would be another convenient way to move around the area.
There are rentals available in the harbour.
Everything! Truly, the most impressive thing about Portofino is the
lifestyle, so running off and “seeing the sights” probably won’t be
your number one priority when you plan your trip. There are some
notable attractions that might be able to lure you from the beaches,
but the view from the harbour or any of the surrounding beaches is
unforgettable and one could spend the entire day marveling at it.
Visiting Portofino is a sensual experience, and this being the case you
should bring some of those sensual items back with you. There are a
couple of small shops in the harbour area offering regional foods and
wines for reasonable prices, and so providing a perfect way to extend
your time there even after you’ve left.
If you’re more into high fashion, there are several posh boutiques from
some of the world’s most famous designers, not surprisingly with some
Italian luminaries on prominent display. If shopping is on your agenda
you’ll happily be able to peruse the latest designs from Armani, Gucci,
Pucci, Ferragamo and Zegna. If you aren’t looking for runway attire,
there are also several boutiques with unique items, including one with
lovely Murano glass jewelry. A new shop has just opened selling
beautiful handmade italian leather handbags its on the right side near
Brunello cuccinelli.
Of course there are a few tourist shops and kiosks as well, with the
usual assortment of beads, magnets and t-shirts for your browsing
pleasure.
Attractions and Activities
One of the best things you can do in Portofino is relax. Walk around
the small city, hear the sea, take a rest at the end of the left
Marconi quay. There is a small wine bar where you have an occasion to
drink something seated less than one meter from the sea.
Usually all the boutiques are open from the end of February until the
end of October. Don’t forget to bring something for your shoulders even
if you came in the summer time. After 6/6.30pm the sun goes behind the
Portofino promontory and cools off considerably.
Also, you can visit San Fruttuoso Bay and try to see the sculpture of
Christ of the Abyss. The easiest way to reach San Fruttuso is by sea
(if weather conditions allow). You can choose a public boat at
reasonable price. If the money is not a problem, try to rent a small
taxi boat. It’s an unforgettable experience. If you have sensible
footwear you can also walk there via a 90 minute hike (2.5-3 hours
return).
If you have some days off, you can also visit the Acquarium on Genoa
(30 km from Portofino) – the biggest one in Europe – and walk around
the port streets. There are a lot of museum and historical buildings.
Castello Brown is a 16th century castle/fort, once used for the
area’s defense, but now primarily a museum with a fantastic view of the
harbour and the Mediterranean Sea.
The church of St. Martin (Divo Martino) is around the corner from the
harbour and is a quaint, stylish little chiesa from the 11th century.
It’s definitely worth taking a casual stroll around it.
The ferry service from Portofino harbour provides frequent service to
Santa Margherita Ligure, which also boasts a beautiful public beach. In
that slightly larger town you’ll also find more shopping and with a
little walk off of the main road you will find several shops
specializing in local foods and libations, and lining the streets will
be antique dealers with all kinds of aged treasures.
Regional Destinations
Genoa
Genoa is a sort of decayed glorious port town, whose decay, however, is what makes it so interesting and pretty. The facades of grand palaces are hidden in scruffy, yet enticing alleyways, and there are really curious treats for anyone in virtually every alley. The city is your “typical” Italian one – quite sunny (during summer), with Mediterranean-looking houses topped by grey slate roofs, filled to the brim with outdoor cafes and bars, with lots of tiny and quirky alleyways, elegant designer shops, and restaurants. Today, also, the old port has been renovated, and currently contains some funky avant-garde modern architecture, a delightful marina, and several seaside bars and shops.
Genoa today, as a tourist attraction, is often shadowed by cities such as Rome or Venice, even though it has a long history as a rich and powerful trade centre. However, with its multitude of hidden gems behind cozy alleyways, excellent cuisine (notably fish and seafood), renovated old port, beautiful sights (including one of Europe’s biggest aquariums), and its position as the European Capital of Culture in 2004 have made the birthplace of explorer Christopher Columbus an enticing place which is gradually becoming more included as a tourist destination. With pastel-coloured terracotta-roofed houses, artistic churches, lovely seaside villas, and also several luxurious boutiques, Genoa is a must see if you want to experience the “quintessential” Italy.
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