Observation Island and the stretch of water where the Recherche and Astrolabe sought shelter in December 1792

The Recherche and Esperance, from L'Empire des Mers, Martine Acerra & Jean Meyer. Painting by Francois Geoffroy Roux (1811-1882)

Little Island

Salmon Beach, Esperance

Twilight Beach, Esperance

Woody Island

Woody Island

West Beach, Esperance

Dolphin Cove, Cape Arid National Park

The Archipelago of the Recherche, also known as the Bay of Isles, is made up of around 130 granite islands and numerous rocky islets offshore from the Western Australian town of Esperance. Although used by sealers in the past, as well as for grazing sheep, none are now inhabited and only 60 or so are named.
The Archipelago lies within the Albany Fraser geological province which stretches along Australia's southern coastline from west of Albany to the Gt Australian Bight. Consisting mainly of granite and gneiss, it is believed to have been created in the Eocene period, after the Australian continent separated from Antarctica, there is evidence that sea level was at times several hundred metres above the present and marine transgressions extended inland to the Dundas Hills.

The granite and other hard rocks of the islands of the Recherche Archipelago eroded very slowly forming thin layers of skeletal soils. This granitic material is also present as rugged headlands such as Mt. Le Grand (345m) along the coast.
By Australian standards the Esperance region has a long history of maritime exploration. Early Dutch records from 1627 indicate that Pieter Van Nuyts first discovered the south western Australian coastline, sailing from Cape Leeuwin to offshore islands near present day Ceduna, in South Australia. Later maritime explorations of the Esperance include those made by Captain Bruni D'Entrecasteaux in 1792. In charge of two French vessels - L'Esperance and La Recherche - D'Entrecasteaux was commissioned to search for a long vanished explorer named La Perouse. Whilst the search for La Perouse proved to be in vain, nevertheless valuable scientific discoveries were made, including compiling the world's first major collection of unique Western Australian flora.
Leaving Amboina on 14th October 1792, d'Entrecasteaux made for New Holland as it was then known. On 6th December, land was sighted near Cape Leeuwin, and D'Entrecasteaux Point was named. This event was celebrated by feastings and parties, one result of which was that the smith on board La Recherche, Jean-Marie Marhadour, over-indulged and died next day from an apoplectic fit. The weather was boisterous, and the ships failed to find King George III Sound, previously discovered by Vancouver. As they sailed further east, they penetrated numerous islands and shoals, to which they gave the name D'Entrecasteaux Islands - later to be changed to the Recherche Archipelago.
On 12th December 1792, a violent storm descended upon them, and both ships were nearly wrecked. Fortunately, however, they found anchorage in the lee of Observation Island, where they were able to ride out the worst of the gale. Ensign Jacques-Bertrand le Grand (1763-1798) (and later Lieutenant and Captain) of the expedition vessel, L'Esperance, bravely scaled the mast during the storm, guiding the two vessels through the reefs safely into Esperance Bay. A cape in the vicinity was named in honour of le Grand, who had spotted the anchorage, and the bay where they went ashore was named after his ship, L'Esperance. A hasty survey of the off-lying islands of the archipelago was made but no water was found, so on 18th December the ships continued eastward to the head of the Great Australian Bight, but here the coast was found to be even more arid, and the water position more serious. On 4th January 1793, d'Entrecasteaux was forced to leave the coast at a position near D'Entrecasteaux Reef and sail direct to Van Diemen's Land.
The crystal clear waters of the Archipelago have a myriad of marine life for divers and snorkellers to enjoy and allow Esperance to rightly lay claim to being one of the top 10 diving sites in Australia. Within the Recherche Archipelago divers will find numerous granite walls, boulders, large caves and a couple of wrecks - the largest and most notable of the two being the Sanko Harvest at 174 metres long. Located 21 nautical miles from Esperance, the Sanko Harvest has broken up into three sections lying in 15 to 42 metres of water. A large number of shore dives can also be found in the Esperance area.

Woody Island
Woody Island Nature Reserve, off the coast of Esperance, is part of the 100 islands that make up the Recherche Archipelago. Surrounded by pristine bushland and ocean, there’s plenty of time for bushwalking, hiking, swimming, snorkelling and fishing. It’s the only island in the archipelago open to the public that offers camping and tousist's facilities such as island cruises.

Cape Le Grand

Cape Le Grand
Cape Le Grand is located 56 kilometres east of Esperance. Like the waters around Esperance, this national park is studded with rugged granite islands, headlands and beautiful bays such as Hellfire Bay, Thistle Cove and the very popular Lucky Bay. Straddling the coastline are bushwalking trails with sweeping views to offshore islands. Located within the southwestern corner of the national park are a series of spectacular granite outcrops named Mount Le Grand, Frenchman's Peak and Mississippi Hill. Cape Le Grand is home to many unique species of native wildflowers and these can be seen in full bloom between September and November. Wallabys can often be seen grazing on the beach at Lucky Bay. More ...

Cape Arid
Cape Arid National Park, located 120 kilometres east of Esperance, offers stunning coastal scenery, rugged granite peaks, excellent swimming , bushwalking and recreational fishing opportunities. Amongst bird watchers Cape Arid is known to be home to endangered Western Ground Parrots, and other rare species such as Carnaby's Black Cockatoo, the Cape Barren Goose and Australasian Bittern. Much of Cape Arid National Park is only suitable for 4 wheel drive vehicles. Conventional vehicles can drive to Thomas River which is located in the southwestern corner of the national park.

View Larger Map