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If you think there's nothing to see in the Red Centre of Australia apart from Ululu, Alice Springs and lots of red desert, then you don't know about the Macdonnell ranges. Stretching for 400km from east-west in a series of parallel ranges, the East and West MacDonnell Ranges straddle the town of Alice Springs, which sits alongside a gap between them. The long term erosive work of streams in the ranges has created a magnificent series of dramatic gaps and gorges which are easy to access from Alice Springs and are truly a photographer's delight.
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Glen Helen Gorge
The majority of the natural attractions that visitors come to see are in the West Macdonnell Ranges, however the eastern branch still has plenty of natural wonders to enthral the visitor. Tours of the ranges operate from Alice Springs, taking in each section of the range in day and half day tours. All the well known attractions are serviced by well maintained sealed roads that are suitable to drive any kind of vehicle along. For the best photographs, we recommend visiting the gorges in the afternoon when the light on the rocks is far better than in the mornings.
West MacDonnell Ranges
The West MacDonnell Ranges sweep around west from Alice Springs for 200 km. The ranges consist of a series of long, steep-sided parallel ridges rising up to 600m high above the valley floors that were carved by ancient rivers such as the Finke and Hugh Rivers. These are the most popular natural features of the West MacDonnells.
Standley Chasm
Standley Chasm, near Alice Springs, is a huge gap at the tail end of the West MacDonnell Ranges. The walls of Standley Chasm are so high, at its base there is only sunlight for a few minutes around noon each day. At this time, the sun strikes the walls and provides a glowing orange effect. A stony path through the gap passes desert palms, mulga and a variety of wildflowers. Rock wallabies scurry up shear vertical rock faces.
Simpsons Gap
Situated 20 km west of Alice Springs, Simpsons Gap (right) is another very picturesque gap in the West MacDonnell Ranges National Park. The river bed and waterhole in the gap are recognised as another good place to see rock wallabies. It was named by Surveyor McMinn in 1871 while exploring possible routes of the Overland Telegraph Line. One of the most prominent waterholes in the West MacDonnell Ranges, Simpsons Gap is an important spiritual site to the Arrernte Aboriginal people, where several dreaming trails and stories cross.
Serpentine Gorge
Following the Larapinta Drive west from Alice Springs, the road forks after 47 kilometres; whereas the left turn goes towards Hermannsburg, the right turn is named Namatjira Drive from here. It is named after Albert Namatjira, a Western Arrarnta man who was born at Hermannsburg Mission in 1902 and who was the first Aboriginal painter who used the "European" way of painting his country. Having been given watercolours as a young man, he immortalised the beauty of his country in countless paintings. And it is precisely the kind of landscape that inspired him that can be seen along the road that now bears his name.
The road runs along the southern boundary of the West Macdonnell National Park and features lush parkland and water holes, like Ellery Creek Big Hole Nature Park and Serpentine Gorge, with clear cool water and plenty of shade. Further west, beneath Mount Giles (1300 m) the Ochre Pits, where from time immemorial Aboriginal people obtained red and yellow ochres to be used in their ceremonies, can be visited. Bands of ochre can be clearly seen in the rocks.
Ormison Gorge
Ormiston Gorge and Pound showcase the spectacular geology and landforms of the MacDonnell Ranges. The cubist-like rock formations tower over the massive pound, making this a spectacular and unique place in the centre. The gorge has a near-permanent waterhole, estimated to be up to 14m deep at its southern end. The area contains an interesting variety of native fauna and flora including a number of relict plant species remaining from a tropical past. The rediscovery of the long-tailed dunnart and the central rock rat makes the park an important fauna refuge. The park is accessible all year round and although the water is still cool in summer, the temperature can soar on the exposed walking trails. The cooler months (April to October) are the most pleasant.
Glen Helen Gorge
Glen Helen Gorge is where the Finke River (known locally as "Larapinta" or serpent) flows into a deep, permanent waterhole. There are interesting rock formations behind the gorge and there is a resort here, complete with motel, restaurant, camping facilities and even helicopter flights. About 20 km further on, along a dirt road, is Redbank Gorge, with a permanent water hole a 20 minute walk up the rocky creek bed. It is a very narrow gorge with cold clear waters among towering red cliffs.
East Macdonnell Ranges
Access to the Eastern MacDonnell Ranges is via the Ross Highway which is sealed for the first 75kms. The unsealed road continues to Ross River Homestead and Arltunga.
Emily And Jessie Gaps
Two creek-worn gaps in the MacDonnell Ranges quite close to Alice Springs. Both sites have great significance in the Aboriginal Yipirinya Dreaming story for Alice Springs, being the location where the Caterpillar ancestors met.
Corroboree Rock Conservation Reserve
A small reserve about 50 km from Alice Springs that contains a rock outcrop of great significance to the Eastern Arrernte people, being a site where initiation ceremonies took place.
Trephina Gorge
85 km east of Alice Springs, Trephina Gorge is recognised as the most attractive of the natural features in the Eastern MacDonnell Ranges. Its stunning scenery includes huge River Red Gums, sandy creek beds, semi-permanent waterholes and towering rocky bluffs. Trephina Gorge is noted for its sheer quartzite cliffs and broad, river red gum lined, sandy watercourses; two gorges dissect the range.
N'Dhala Gorge
98 km east of Alice Springs, a major feature of this gorge is a series of over one thousand ancient Aboriginal rock carvings and petroglyphs that have been protected by the rugged walls of two gorges. These are some of the finest, well preserved examples of Aboriginal rock art in Central Australia. 4WD is recommended though not essential.
Ruby Gap
140 km east of Alice Springs, Ruby Gap was invaded by miners in 1886 seeking rubies which later proved to be worthless garnets. Ruby Gap is one of the beautiful gorges along the Hale River. 4WD access only.
Climate; the best time to visit: The region is located in an arid environment consisting of several different deserts. December to February is normally very hot; November to March is when the most rain falls. May to September is the peak season when Alice Springs is at its busiest. In these months, the daytime temperature never gets to high but it can get quite cold at night. If you are looking to take sunset shots of Uluru, August and September are the best months as there is generally little cloud about.
If you plan on incorporating the Top End into your travels and want to avoid the hot summer as well as the peak tourist season, the ideal to is come to Alice Springs in April or May first, then head north. Otherwise, see the Top End first in August or September and visit Alice Springs on your way home.
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