Rock climbing is the most advanced and challenging aspect of mountaineering, with the possible exception of ice crafting. As the name suggests, it is a battle against gravity. Rock rock climbing has become a major sport in the area of adventure sports, perhaps because it is the most satisfying form of mountaineering. Nothing is as pleasurable than to gaze up on a daunting rock-face and thinking- “Oh, I can’t climb that…”, and then actually managing to get to the top. It gives the climber a profound sense of confidence whenever a rock is climbed, whether big or small. Some say it’s for the sheer thrill of success, others for a test of courage and ability. But perhaps the best answer to this question came from one George Mallory himself. Just before his fatal expedition in 1923, he was asked as to why he wanted to climb the Everest. His short and simple answer was, “Because it’s there”…
Australia's Hardest Climbs: The grading of any route is subject to controversy, and what is the hard is always an area of endless debate. Very few people have repeated more than a handful of Australia's hardest routes (Garth Miller being the exception) and to come to a consensus on such a ranking takes a number of opinions. Click here for Climbing Australia's latest ranking of Australia's hardest routes.
Australian climbing related websites: Climbing Australia | Australian Crags, Canyons and Caves | Rock Climbing Australia | Rock climbing adventure tours
State by State Index: Vic| Tas | SA | WA | NT | Qld | NSW and ACT
Victoria
Victoria boasts some world class sites for rock climbing and abseiling, most of which are located in National and State parks and other areas of public land controlled by Parks Victoria and the Department of Natural Resources and Environment. Some places in National Parks, such as Aboriginal sites, peregrine nesting areas, wilderness areas, tourist sites and conservation zones might have more stringent conditions on climbing than generally apply. Check with local offices and work centres before you climb.
Related websites: The best rock climbing sites in Victoria | Parks Victoria Rock Climbing | South West Victoria climbs | North West Victoria climbs |
Melbourne: Melbourne is the largest city in Victoria and the capital of that state. The nearest outdoor climbing within an hour from Melbourne, with a decent sized crag, is Werribee Gorge or possibly Camel's Hump, though there are closer, but smaller cliffs. Apart from the gyms, there isn't much to climb in town, however a few options do exist, mainly bouldering on bluestone walls, below railway bridges and the like. More ...
Mt. Arapiles: All serious Australian climbers stop what they are doing three times each day to face toward Arapiles and genuflect. Those who have made the pilgrimage to central-west Victoria are accorded special respect and are given the title Haji. With more than 2,000 climbs, Arapiles has the highest concentration of high-quality climbing in the country - and some of the best routes anywhere on the planet. For a moment in climbing history, it boasted the hardest route in the world: Punks in the Gym (31). More ... | Recommended Mt. Arapiles climbs
Mt. Buffalo: Mt. Buffalo is a granite plateau in northwestern Victoria. Rising 1500 metres above the surrounding plains the plateau has an alpine feel. There are two main climbing areas on the plateau: the 300 metre-deep Buffalo gorge that cuts into the eastern side of the escarpment and the slabs found on top of the plateau. The two areas have two very distinct styles of climbing - steep, long cracks in the gorge and thin, bolt-protected slabs on the top. More ... | Recommended Mt. Buffalo climbs
The Grampians: The Grampians offers an incredible diversity of climbing. Approximately 100 km long and 45 km wide and covering an area of almost 2000 square kms the Grampians has something for everyone. No other area in Australia offers the quality and quantity of climbing and such unlimited potential. More ... | Recommended Grampians climbs
The You Yangs: The You Yangs offers some reasonably good climbing, albeit on short granite tors, within an easy 40 minute drive from Melbourne. There are many areas and hundreds of routes, but, and it has to be said, quite a considerable number are not worth a second glance, much less an ascent. The various outcrops are scattered over a fairly large park with up to 20 minute or so approach hikes required for some of the more distant tors though there is some good stuff a lot closer to the road. More ...
Tasmania
Tasmania is home to what for many is seen as the ultimate climb in Australia - The Totem Pole - one of the most spectacular pieces of rock on the planet. It is a free-standing dolerite pillar spearing straight out of the water in a gloomy chasm infested with sharks and subject to volatile swell patterns. It is over sixty metres tall, but only about four metres wide at the base. It sways in the wind and shudders with the crash of every wave. The prospect this piece of rock presents the climber is uncompromising and chilling. It demands you take at handful of bravery pills, as the challenge of the climb is psychological as much as technical.
Related websites: The best rock climbing sites in Northern Tasmania | Comprehensive guide to the top climbing sites of Tasmania | Australian climbing links
Organ Pipes, Mt. Wellington: Hobart is defined by Mt. Wellington. Standing 1270 metres high, it forms a stunning backdrop to the city while the spectacular vista from the top encompassing the surrounding islands and estuaries is truly world class. The summit may be a short drive from the city centre but is a world removed, a true mountain environment complete with unpredictable weather, stunted sub-alpine flora, and a complex of buttresses, outcrops, screes and gullies. Situated directly below the summit at an altitude of 1000m is the largest and most conspicuous crag on the mountain, the Organ Pipes. Visible further to the right and tucked beneath the subsidiary peak of Mt. Arthur, is the boutique crag of Lost World. More ... | other Mt. Wellington climbs
Tasman Peninsula: The Tasman Peninsular in Tasmania's south-east corner finishes in a spectacular sweep of vertical cliffs, the highest sea cliffs in Australia. The rock is Jurassic dolerite, the remains of a drowned escarpment, with kilometres of unclimbed columns, stacks, chasms and great walls rising abruptly from the deep ocean waters. Well-worn phrases such as "awesome coastal scenery, once seen, never forgotten", "one of the world's most fearful sea cliffs", "the scariest cliff in the known universe", "no equal anywhere in the southern hemisphere" ... are all absolutely true of this place. Cape Raoul climbs | Cape Pillar climbs | Fortescue Bay & Cape Hauy climbs (including The Candlestick and the Totem Pole) | Tasman Peninsula climbs |
Adamsfield: Wilderness sport climbing! Adamsfield is a collection of conglomerate boulders sitting on top of a small range that overlooks pristine lakes and forests. The climbs vary from gently overhung faces to steep roofs and are from 5 to 15m long. Adamsfield is a relatively new addition to the Tasmanian climbing scene, the first routes were established in 1994. All routes are sport routes and most of them are graded 20 to 29. More ...
Ben Lomond: The cliffs of Ben Lomond provide arguably some of the best climbing in Tasmania. Being near one of Tasmania's premier skiing resorts (if there is such a thing), climbing is only possible during the summer months. For those inclined, winter climbing would certainly provide new problems - don't forget the ice screws! At an elevation of at least 1300m, the crags are very high (by Australian standards). Even in summer weather changes will occur very quickly, so don't forget your warm gear or be prepared to shiver. On warm summers afternoons though, this place is complete bliss. Ben Lomond climbs | Ben Lomond ice climb |
Cataract Gorge: Launceston has more quality rock within 90 minutes drive of the city than most other major cities in Australia. With over 1800 routes at 12 venues all reachable in 90 minutes drive or less, it certainly makes for a great climbing holiday. The Northern Tasmanian landscape provides an astonishing variety of climbing experiences, all within a relatively small geographical area. In central Launceston there are 850 routes in Cataract Gorge and further upstream. In the North Esk river just 10 minutes from town is 300 routes in another spectacular gorge. More ...
Freycinet Peninsula: The climbing on the peninsula varies from the less accessible routes on the Hazards (a spectacular 300m high, pink granite dome) to the more popular, shorter (usually single pitch), steeper, well protected climbs found closer to Coles Bay. Grades vary from 5 to 28. If you get sick of climbing you can always swim, bushwalk or kayak around the peninsula. More ...
Frenchmans Cap: It's a long walk to reach this one, but well worth it. Located 100km NW of Hobart in the Franklin-Gordon National Park, it is on some of the country's longest adventure routes. Be ready for a 25km walk in on a well-posted track. More ... | Climbing Guide
New South Wales/ACT
Sydney: There is a good variety of climbing scattered around Sydney, from stunning sea cliffs to quiet and hidden crags in the suburbs. The most popular include, Berowra, Joll's Bridge, Barrenjoey, Narrabeen, North Head, Diamond Bay, Sissy Crag and The Balkans. More ... | suburban Sydney climbs
Blue Mountains: The Blue Mountains is a huge sandstone plateau about 100 km west of Sydney. In places, the plateau has been eroded by rivers and streams to form an almost endless diversity of crags and climbing styles from one-pitch sport crags to multipitch traditional routes. The best climbing starts at around Katoomba and Blackheath is probably the most central climbing town. With an array of coffee shops and a great bakery an early morning stop in Blackheath is highly recommended. More ... | Pierces Pass climb | Mt. Banks climb | other Blue Mountains climbs |
Booroomba: Booroomba is in the southern end of the ACT in Namadgi National Park. It has some lovely cheese-grater slabs with good exposure. The rock is clean and solid with great friction, but watch out for those crystals that like to pop out after all these millennia just when you have your hand on them. More ... | other ACT climbs
Bungonia Gorge: A legendary climber once described Bungonia Gorge with one chilling word: "Spooky". These are among Australia's biggest walls with challenging routes. Most of the climbing is in the low 20s and is protected by natural gear. There are a few bolts and bolted anchors. More ...
Nowra: Nowra is sport climbing central for New South Wales. With several well-developed areas, there are hundreds of great lines on high-quality sandstone. Be sure to keep the guidebook out of children's hands.
It may not have the coffee shops or scenery of the Blue Mountains but if it's hard sport routes you're after, this is the place for you! Most of the crags are spread along the Shoalhaven River and throughout the urban area of Nowra. More ... | Nowra area climbs
Point Perpendicular: Point Perpendicular boasts several hundred routes on dozens of different cliffs. The climbs are extremely varied in style, rock quality, position and protection. Generally speaking the climbing is adventurous and the gear is a combination of the odd bolt and natural protection. There are a few completely bolted routes. Many of the cliffs are accessed by abseil, so a static rope is handy. This is best left in place and prussiks and jumars should be carried! Where the rock is good, for example in the Lighthouse Area, the climbing is fantastic. More ...
Warrumbungles: "Adventurous" is the word for the Warrumbungles. Some of the best long routes (100-450m) and probably the highest concentration of long routes in Australia are found here. The routes are generally quite serious, irrespective of the grade, and route-finding is almost always a problem - but this just adds to the adventure. The grades of the routes range from 8 to 24 but the majority are between 14 and 21. There are four main climbing areas - Crater Bluff, Belougery Spire, Touduron and Bluff Mountain. More ...
Western Australia
Related websites: Rock climbing routes in WA | The Crag (Rock climbing WA) |
Perth: Within a 100km radius of the city there are some 700 routes offering a great variety of climbing from delicate slabs to cracks and steep walls. There are more than a dozen crags (some of the quarries sound a bit choosy) and about half a dozen bouldering areas scattered throughout the Perth hills. The Perth region offers a lot of traditional climbing, so take a rack! And on a rainy day, three or four indoor climbing gyms can be found in the suburbs. More ...
Margaret River: In the climbing world Margaret River is best known for it's spectacular sea cliffs (Willyabrup) and more recently for the development of sport climbing on the steeper limestone crags of Wallcliffe and Bob's Hollow. Within a 40km radius of Margaret River there are more than 200 routes. For the many traditional routes in this area take a full rack of wires, RPs, friends etc. More ...
Kalbarri: Although northern WA can be hard to get to, it also has some great climbing. The Z-bend gorge in Kalbarri, probably has some of WA's best, hard sport climbs. It also has some great trad climbs. More ... | climbing at the The Apiary area of Hawks Head
Peak Charles: Not the most accessible climbing area in Australia (820 km south east of Perth), nevertheless Peak Charles definitely deserves a visit if you're in the area. A large dome crafted from fine orange granite, it contains many smaller faces and gullies where most routes are found. The range of climbing styles and grades should satisfy most people. More ...
South Australia
Related websites: Climbing Club of SA |
Adelaide: the best rock climbs in the Adelaide area are mainly to be found in the Adelaide Hills. The most popular outdoor climbing venue in the Adelaide area, Morialta is situated in the Adelaide Hills only 20 minutes from the centre of the city. Morialta climb | Adelaide Hills climbs
Moonarie: The Flinders Ranges are home to some world-renowned rock climbing destinations so if you are a serious climber this is the destination for you. Moonarie is a remote cliff found in the heart of the Flinders ranges. It's wilderness feel, minimal fixed protection and the 40 minute uphill walk to the cliff may not appeal to everyone but I have never met anyone who has visited Moonarie and not raved about it. With more than 400 routes with grades ranging from 4 to 28, both single pitch and multi pitch (up to 120m) there is something for everyone. The cracks are generally wider then at Mt. Arapiles so a range of wider nuts and friends is recommended. There are no climbs fully equipped with fixed protection. More ...
Northern Territory
Climbing in the Northern Territory can be done all year round; however climbing during the wet season can be a little uncomfortable due to the heat, humidity and unpredictable downpours. During the Dry season you can be assured of clear skies almost every day. When climbing in the Top End, as in any other area of Australia, taking water with you is a must. Be aware that the Top End Scrub has one of the highest populations of venomous snakes, scorpions and spiders anywhere in Australia. So remember to look wear you step, wear sturdy footwear for approaches and avoid lifting rocks, lest you disturb what lurks beneath.
Related websites: The best rock climbing sites in the Northern Territory |
Ormiston Gorge: 130km W of the Alice in the West MacDonnell National Park, the gorge is set in the desert above a dry riverbed. Ormiston is one of the NT's best climbing choices. More ...
Umbrawarra: 240km S of Darwin on the Sturt Highway, Umbrawarra is considered the best climb in the Northern Territory, being single-pitch stuff at moderate grades. But, with good quality rock rising above a series of waterholes, the setting makes the whole thing worthwhile. More ...
Hayes Creek: Hayes Creek is located on the Stuart Highway approximately 170kms south of Darwin. Most routes are composed of sandstone (Depot Creek Formation), and are relatively clean, but there are some loose blocks both on and above the climbs. The routes range in grade from easy to moderate and routes vary from slabs and faces to overhangs and cracks. More ...
Queensland
Related websites: Queensland climbing community online
Kangaroo Point: Apart from perhaps Sydney, this is as close as you can get to climbing real rock at a reasonable height, right near the heart of the central business district of an Australian capital city. There are concrete bollards at the top of the cliff for top rope anchors. Taps, BBQs and toilets close by. Bright lights along the base of the cliff also make night climbing possible. More ...
Flinders Peak: For years, the minions of the Maharaji guarded Ivory Rock from the prying interests of passing climbers. This huge unclimbed horseshoe buttress is visible from the road as you travel to Frog. For us it was always the beacon for Mt. Flinders. Passed jokingly around the campfire, generations of Queensland climbers have heard stories of secret cults guarding this cool formation. More ...
Mt. Tibrogargan: Mt. Tibrogargan hosts a wealth of varied climbing. The special thing about Tibro is that it is vast enough to be able to accommodate all styles of rockclimbing, from the ye olde routes of yore, established with piton and hammer, to the more modern routes which may be trad, mixed, or sport. These styles can happily coexist without treading on each others toes, which adds to the overall diversity of the climbing experience. More ... | Guide to climbing the Glasshouse Mountains
Mt. Coolum: Shady, dry, salty, slopey, glassey, pumpy, sharp, steep, vacant - this climb on Queensland's Sunshine Coast has got everything. The east facing cave offers some of the steepest and hardest sport climbing in the state, with heaps more potential for those with the right engineering skills. More ...
Magnetic Island, Townsville: Magnetic Island is the island very visible off the coast of Townsville. The climbing is on medium-large sized boulders and rock formations all around the island's many bays. There is an incredible amount of rock of the island. More ...
Mt. Stuart: Mt. Stuart is North Queensland's premier crag and is located located 22km from Townsville's city heart. It's the mountain with the TV towers on the top. Any map of Townsville can show you how to get there. Its peak is 584m above sea level. Winter climbs are awesome, summer is hot, but due to the perfect positioning of the crag, it is still very climbable. More ...
Frog Buttress: Crack heaven with easy access at a great location. Be sure to pack your hand tape!. Mount French National Park is 100km SW of Brisbane near Boonah. More ...
Girraween: Girraween National Park, located 260km SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe, is a large area containing many fine examples of granite slab and face climbing. With little natural protection and some big run outs many of it's route require an almost free solo approach. Don't be discouraged though, there are plenty of good routes with ample protection squeezed in between the blank walls. More ...
